Any .38 Special reloading tricks/worries?

Boolit Mold Join DateApr 2009Posts7

I have been reloading the three semi-auto pistol calibers (with my cast boolits) plus 30.06, 30 Carbine and .223 for several years now. Due to rising costs and availability I decided to jump into .38 special but I am concerned because of the difference in crimp, roll versus taper. Using Lee dies and a Lee Classic Cast Turret, do I have any worries or just follow the die set up instructions? This is not a question of powder, primer or projectiles (lead SWC 158 grain) just actual reloading issues for the .38.

thank you,
grumpa

I don't think you will have any problems - I think the .38 special is an easy round to load. For roll crimped rounds, I try to flair the cases just enough to start the boolits into the case. I also try to minimize the roll crimp to not work the brass excessively.

If you don't read the newspaper, you are uninformed. If you do, you are misinformed.
- Mark Twain

I ( and most everyone else that I know ) will place a light conventional roll crimp into the crimp groove of a bullet like the 358477 or the 358429 in 38 Spec. loads.

Have shot many thousands with this technique.

Ben

IMO, one of the easiest hand gun ctgs to load. Good advice above.
1Shirt!

"Common Sense Is An Uncommon Virtue" Ben Franklin

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Boolit Man Join DateApr 2012LocationUtahPosts147

I go the other route with the 38 and lead, I like to put a light taper crimp on the case mouth just enough to remove the belling. For heavy loads I increase the taper crimp a little more. The taper crimp works the brass less and the revolver really doesn't care if its shooting a taper or roll crimp round. The roll crimp I save for jacketed loads just because I have one die for each crimp so the taper is left set for lead and the roll crimp die is left set for the jacketed bullets I load.

The only significant difference in loading the .38sp I can think of is that you do need to be aware of the seating depth/ crimp groove/ crimp relationship so that the crimp is not starting before the brass can roll into the groove if you're seating and crimping in one operation. The 38sp cases are thinner, and will buckle slightly if the crimp digs in while the boolit is still moving down into the case. Longer than average cases will occasionally cause this as well.

Boolit Master Join DateFeb 2008LocationChugiak Alaska on the outskirts of AnchoragePosts406

I bell just enough to start a lead bullet, then just barely remove the bell with very light to no crimp. With this method it makes little difference whether you use cast or jacketed also little difference whether you roll or taper crimp. 38spl usually doesn't have enough recoil to jump crimp and the less you mess with the case mouth the longer the brass will last. Nice easy round to load and shoot.

I also use a very light taper crimp, just enough to remove the bell. I have shot many rounds this way with no problems.

Lee's factory crimp die has a carbide sizing ring in it that can swag down the size of your boolit when you crimp it. I knocked the carbide ring out of mine because of that reason. You may want to check by pulling a loaded round and see if it is getting sized down or not.

My opinion may differ, but, don't worry about how much flare you put into the case mouth for now. Put enough in to get the job done, and not shave any lead. How much will you shorten the case life? 5 reloads? The .38 Special is designed for roll crimps and you can experiment with how much works for you. I started reloading with .38 Specials in '69 and used a Lee Loader and liked medium to heavy roll crimps. As my experience grew, I refined my methods, but still like a firm roll crimp even though it isn't "necessary" (I still don't worry how many times my .38s get reloaded. I look at each case before I start reloading and catch any defects. I have some nickel plated brass that has been reloaded so many times the nickel is worn very thin). Reloading the .38 Special is quite simple and forgiving and there are a bunch of powders that will work (I started with Bullseye and still use it today, amoung several other powders). I like to separate seating/crimping into 2 steps as I think I can control things better that way. If you've done any reloading before the .38 Special should a piece o' cake...

Don't get all concerned about measuring how long the loaded round is or obsessing with OAL and such. Most cast revolver bullets have a crimp groove, just crimp into the groove. Don't measure nothing, if it chambers OK you good to go. Something I do is seat the bullet in one step and crimp them in a seperate step. A roll crimp can sometimes scrape a tiny bit of lead as it is being seated, this two step seat / crimp eliminates that.
Be careful...reloading and shooting 38 special , especially in a good revolver can become very addictive. I been hooked for years. And once you start casting your own bullets...there is no hope for you.

Gary

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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