Brass mold 1st time user

Boolit Man Join DateAug 2012Posts77

Hi all,

I just sent off for a new brass mold from Accurate Molds this morning and was hoping someone could offer proper use and care information. Considering what I paid for it, I want it to outlast me!! Thanks, Will

Adhering to rigid standards of flexibility.

should have no problem out lasting you
as far as care just cast and go
take care of it as you would any other fine tool
Tom makes superb molds and you will not be disappointed

Pretty much as with any other mold, just don't bang the mold halves together when casting. Mate them up a little more politely. We don't want to beat the sprue plate open. Get the mold hot enough, and that won't be necessary. Just keep it lubricated, preferably with something like Bullplate - it's great stuff. AND - don't overheat it prior to casting. Don't ask how I know........
Mike

I saw Elvis at 1000 feet. John Force

Boolit Man Join DateAug 2012Posts77

What is a good way to preheat the mold? I noticed the warning on the Accurate website about warping the brass. Guess I will have to invest in a thermometer

Adhering to rigid standards of flexibility.

thermometer is not a necessary tool. Several threads on using brass
molds. How much experience with other molds?

Bill

If it was easy, anybody could do it.

Investing in a thermometer would not be your biggest mistake, I have even found that connecting through a PID makes my boolits drop more consistently. Don't need to use your mallet at all and good boolits from most all fills. Lowers the frustration and wasted motion. Yes, I use a gloved right hand and cast for a couple of hours at a time. Set the PID, turn on the, hot plate, set the mould on the hot plate and take care of other preparations while it all gets up to speed. Come back and cast them things.

EW

Boolit Man Join DateAug 2012Posts77

Investing in a thermometer would not be your biggest mistake, I have even found that connecting through a PID makes my boolits drop more consistently. Don't need to use your mallet at all and good boolits from most all fills. Lowers the frustration and wasted motion. Yes, I use a gloved right hand and cast for a couple of hours at a time. Set the PID, turn on the, hot plate, set the mould on the hot plate and take care of other preparations while it all gets up to speed. Come back and cast them things.

EW

edubya...I have a PID that I bought for a kiln that never materialized. Could you tell me how to wire it to a hot plate? I love that idea!!

To answer the other post...I have only used aluminum molds from Lee.

Adhering to rigid standards of flexibility.

My hot plate does not need the PID. The highest I've ever seen the temp on it is 550*. The mould does not have to be higher than that. The PID controls the lead pot, an RCBS that just plugs into the back of the PID. I set the melt temp to 700 +/-5* and when the green light comes on I start casting. Within two, maybe three casts it's up and running 'til I get too tired.

EW

P.S. Watch this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=sMXtwOqc1NY#!

Last edited by Edubya; Today at 06:46 AM. Reason: P.S.

Will,

1. re: Hotplate - Get something to distribute the heat. Many use an old circular saw blade. Start with your hotplate set at 2/3 the way to max. Let it heat while your pot melts the alloy. The setting og the hotplate will vasry depending on the size of the mold blocks and the local air temp. For me, in the winter, I need to run mine wide open for a 4 cav in the winter. I run it half way for a 2 cav in the summer.

2. Mold block prep: totally disassemble and degrease. Once the mold blocks are dry, put them on the hotplate and run them up to temp for 30 min, then let them cool to room temp. Do this several times. You will see the brass change color. This is good, as the oxide makes it harder for lead to stick. to the brass.

3. Inspect your sprue plate. Use magnification to look at the sprue holes. The countersinking should go all the way to the bottom. You want a sharp cutting edge there. Look at the edges of the plate and the edges of the sprue holes for dings and burrs. Dress edges as needed.

4. When you reassemble, leave your sprue plate loose-ish. Some like it to be able to swing under its own weight. I open mine when casting using a gloved hand, not a mallet. I do press the plat gently against the mold block when cutting the sprue.

5. Lube the block and sprue plate with either Bullplate or synthetic 2 cycle oil. Verrrrrrry little! There are threads here on that.

I have a goodly number of brass molds and have heated them to the point of it taking minutes for a pour to set up, and have not warped them. Use some common sense in pre-heating and you should be fine.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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