Posted on the S&W forum also :

I started in `83 & wish my first 1s looked that good !!!

Your alloy temp looks OK , maybe too warm ,but the molds can get too hot & cause fillout problems also , by the pic it looks as if the far left Lachmiller boolit the mold may have been too warm (cookin the tin)
& causing poor fill out .

May I suggest a Thermometer to monitor the alloy closer ,the numbers on the dial are just for reference & as the melt comes to temp & the levels drop ya have to keep tweekin the temp down . Some build PID controllers but I never have.

As far as the wrinkles go on a preheated mold , it was either not up to temp (I like to start at 350f on steel molds, checked with an infared temp gun & 300 on aluminum).
Also the molds have to be free of any lubes ,oils or cleaners that will cook off or leach from the pores as it comes to temp & ya found the best way to do that CAST & get em hot !
Sometimes I smoke the cavity with a slightly visible coating of carbon from a butane liter , the spray release stuff will coat the cavity & lessen dia accordingly.

I like the lachmillers & my GPs do also !!
I have the 162 plainbased swc in 2 cavity & the 162 swc GCed in 3 cavity , both are quality molds !!

Here`s a pic of the 2 holer after a cleanin & some hot alloy .

Now the HP problem , I have no exp with MP molds or cramer style HPs but plenty with NOE molds & I usually smooth the pins as much as possible with 600 paper (carefully) to a shine , then after they heat up with the mold I barely touch the tips with a q tip that`s damp with Bull Shops sprue plate lube, or a synthetic 2 cycle ashless oil will do in a pinch ,but will have to be applied more often than Bull Shops lube .

I also touch the alignment pins & lube any moving part ,applied to the any surface then dried off lead will not stik .

But use any lube sparingly as applied & as the mold comes to temp or is to to temp alittle will migrate a long ways & we need to keep the cavitys free of anything .

Hope this helps .

GP