I haven't read of anyone doing this, does anyone use a propane torch to warm your molds initially? I have read about using a hot plate but thought a propane torch would be faster.
If I did I would keep the torch moving and not do it for very long. I don't think it is worth the risk of screwing up a mould. I do use one briefly on pins in hollow point moulds.
i do only as mentioned BRIEF-LY , any sharp peaks inside the mold may heat up fast and ruin the sharp edges so watch out heat from outside only and move around , i have best results setting on the melted lead on top ..
I do it all the time with RCBS steel molds. You just have to be smart about it and not over do it. Keep rotating the mold to distribute the heat evenly.Winelover
I think if I was gonna use a propane torch I`d use it under a plate of steel so heat would be distributed more evenly.
If you're doing it to a Lee mold, be very careful....cheap sprue plate that will warp from overheating.
I have used a Mapp gas torch for years. Haven't hurt a mold yet.
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I regularly use a propane torch with cast iron block moulds only. I use the torch on the blocks and sprue plate after cleaning any preservative oil off with hot soapy water or with brake cleaner, etc. The flame is moved as mentioned and you can see the residual oil, moisture and cleaner bubble up and burn off. Once burned off I do not use the torch any more to "heat" the mould. After "torching" I also use a Q tip to wipe any residue out of the cavities. I then put a graphite mould prep on the top of the mould and all over the sprue plate and then set the "prepped" mould on top of the furnace to stay warm. I seldom have to pour more than 2- 3 fills before perfect bullets are then produced.Larry Gibson
Thanks guys....I do keep the mold moving while using the torch and I do have Lee molds. I have found my molds work best pretty hot (in fact I have unsuccessfully tried to get frosty boolits, but just a DC mold) and simply setting the mold on top of the pot while it heats up is not enough, so I use the torch for just the initial heat. As always you guys are a big help.
Have for many, many years just dipped the molds (iron and alum) in the melt until there is no more melt sticking to the mold and I am ready to start casting. Take less than a min for alum, maybe a min and a half or two for 2 cav. iron. As it works for me, I will not try to fix it.
1Shirt!
"Common Sense Is An Uncommon Virtue" Ben Franklin"Ve got too soon old and too late smart" Pa.Dutch Saying
Have for many, many years just dipped the molds (iron and alum) in the melt until there is no more melt sticking to the mold and I am ready to start casting. Take less than a min for alum, maybe a min and a half or two for 2 cav. iron. As it works for me, I will not try to fix it.
1Shirt!I agree with 1Shirt of warming a mold. I use another method of warming also. On a "yard sale" hot plate for $3, I put a piece of 1/8" steel plate and preheat the mold on this "Hotplate". Whatever method you may use just use common sense on how you are doing it and how easy it could be to mess up a mold.Robert
No propane torches on my molds ! ! !Ben
No propane torches on my molds ! ! !Boolit Master Join DateApr 2005LocationIowaPosts364Ben
Amen to that!It's simple to just set it on the pot and let it heat up with the lead.
Direct flame (that high a temp) on my molds? Heck no.
No propane torches on my molds ! ! !Ben
It might work fine a few times if exercised with caution. In my career before retirement I can't begin to tell you how many times I witnessed something screwed up by heat applied with a torch. Also I don't care for open flame any more than necessary while doing something. Single burner hot plates are dirt cheap at Goodwill. I use an old hot plate with a 1/2 inch thick aluminum circular plate sitting on top the electric burner. The molds sit on top the aluminum plate at just the right predialed temperature. Much safer for people, things, and molds.
[QUOTE=1Shirt;2176029] "Have for many, many years just dipped the molds (iron and alum) in the melt until there is no more melt sticking to the mold and I am ready to start casting."Boolit Man Join DateApr 2012LocationOntario, Can!Posts121Absolutely correct.
I too have used this method for decades, and it just simply WORKS. NO extra equipment, NO fuss, NO worries about actual mould temperature (beyond the fact that it's hot enough to start casting)... and NO damage to moulds.
all i ever use is a propane torch on aluminum and brass molds (all i have) and so far haven't had any issues, i get it warm, then cast a few and it's usually ready to go .
I use a hot plate to warm my bullet molds, but when I cast the hammers for a site benefit sale this year I sat the hammer head mold on my hot plate and had to use a propane torch to get the mold hot enough to cast reasonably good heads. I had a thermocouple probe down in a hole in the mold and was able to read the temperature using a PID controller display. It was a lot of mass to heat up, but even though the mold is aluminum I wasn't worried about damaging it. Just keep the torch moving around slowly and don't overheat any edges.FYI - mold was 400-425 F, alloy was 750 F.
I don't think I'd use one on a small bullet mold, a hot plate works fine and gets things plenty hot enough.
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