In reading your past posts, I'm quite sure you have flushed out all remaining grit from the polishing process, from all parts including the decap portion. This was my first thought and I figured I'd pass it on.I had an old used set of RCBS dies for 44 WCF that did the same, polished it out, some scratching still remains, but in shooting black powder it doesn't seem to matter much.
Maybe I'll revisit the issue.
THANKS
DOWNWINDPS Are you starting with CLEAN cases?
If so, maybe some grit being transfered while loading?
Sunday, March 31, 2013
Strange Thing with 38-40 Cowboy Dies
Powder Measure Drop Tubes
I was recently asked about drop tube interchangeably for a Hollywood. Checking I found that RCBS and Hollywood are interchangeable. Original Hollywood uses a steel tube while RCBS uses an aluminum tube.
Ken
Boolit Buddy Join DateDec 2008LocationStuck in LodiPosts56I have the RCBS, is the hollywood still being made?Thanks
Allen
Pressman, thank you for taking the time to research and share tha great information!Hemiallen - I don't think Hollywood measures have been marketed since sometime from the 70's to 1980 maybe. Maybe Pressman, or Kevin or Fred can be moe exact.
TEAM HOLLYWOOD
NRA- LIFE TSRA-LIFE SASS-LIFE
I was recently asked about drop tube interchangeably for a Hollywood. Good to know. I had to trash an RCBS measure recently, but kept the drop tubes. I even know where they are.
Member: Orange Gunsite Family, NRA-Life, Varmint Hunter's Assn, ARTCA, American Legion, & South Cuyahoga Sportsmen's Assn.You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules"Gunnery, gunnery, gunnery...all else is twaddle!"--Admiral Sir John Fisher, RN
"An armed society is a polite society"--Robert Heinlein via Col. Jeff Cooper, USMC
"You cannot invade the mainland United States. There would be a rifle behind each blade of grass"--Admiral Isoroku Yamamoto
Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"
Stainless steel ingot mould?
I made a couple ingot moulds after work the other day out of some 316 ss tube and tig welded them together. Then I got to thinking if these would even be usable? I've never seen or heard of ss moulds so being a total newb I thought I'd ask here before I poured hot lead into 'em. They are flared at the opening so the lead can drop out.
Will these be ok or should I throw them in the scrap bin?
I'm the gun totin, meat eatin', BIBLE readin', redneck conservative your mother always warned you about.
I'm not the one to answer your question with any degree of knowlege. I use the cast iron variety. However yours sure look nice.
Socialism is a philosophy of failure,
the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy,
its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery."
-- Winston Churchill
The SS will be fine as long as you have a little draft so the`ll come out .The SS may be a little slower to dissapate heat , when the ingots look solid the centers will still be molten & this time to solidify may vary .
For a full evaluation send em to me with return label & I`ll do a study on em.
Nice ingot molds by the way
Ok good to know, thanks fellas. I thought maybe the lead could stick like glue and never come out or the ss would contaminate the ingots, etc. It's good to have guys to ask dumb questions to.
I'm the gun totin, meat eatin', BIBLE readin', redneck conservative your mother always warned you about.
Finstr,Welcome to the group. Nice molds. You have no worries about lead bonding to stainless steel. It's hard to get lead to stick to anything, especially with widely different temperatures. GP100man brought up the critical issue. It appears that the ends of the molds are parallel. You have plenty of draft on the sides; not so sure about the ends. Lead isn't going to stick to stainless unless there is some mechanical trapping like a very rough surface that would cause it to get hung up. It still wouldn't be sticking to the SS- just hung up. If the ingots don't come out easily, cut the ends free, open the angle a couple of degrees and weld them back.
For contamination to occur you would have to get both metals above the melting temp of the SS, a temperature at whch the lead would have vaporized. Lead starts emitting vapors at about 1100* F.
My casting bench is covered with a galvanized drip pan for the same reason. Lead just won't stick. I've been looking for a cheap stainless table like a restaurant food prep table to make into a casting bench for a long time.
David
There is only one way of compromising the on Second Amendment. That is when Liberals call for Conservatives to compromise. What they really mean "give up just a little more of your rights just this once"- every time they call for compromise. Molon Labe!
Weld a T on the end of your handles so they wont turn on you when loaded with hot lead..
David, I covered my table with a sheet of s/s it works great and nothing sticks. Finstr,Welcome to the group. Nice molds. You have no worries about lead bonding to stainless steel. It's hard to get lead to stick to anything, especially with widely different temperatures. GP100man brought up the critical issue. It appears that the ends of the molds are parallel. You have plenty of draft on the sides; not so sure about the ends. Lead isn't going to stick to stainless unless there is some mechanical trapping like a very rough surface that would cause it to get hung up. It still wouldn't be sticking to the SS- just hung up. If the ingots don't come out easily, cut the ends free, open the angle a couple of degrees and weld them back.
For contamination to occur you would have to get both metals above the melting temp of the SS, a temperature at whch the lead would have vaporized. Lead starts emitting vapors at about 1100* F.
My casting bench is covered with a galvanized drip pan for the same reason. Lead just won't stick. I've been looking for a cheap stainless table like a restaurant food prep table to make into a casting bench for a long time.
David
Dang those look good. You ought to think about making them for others. I have one Lyman ingot mold and never thought I'd need another. I would certainly consider one of those beauties!
"A person cannot exercise their right to speak freely if they have been stripped of their ability to defend themselves and repel those forces who would seek to quell their speech." Me
Boolit Buddy Join DateJun 2011LocationIllinoisPosts61I wonder how stainless steel work for a bullet mold? It would seem that it's rust resistance would be a bonus.
Weld a T on the end of your handles so they wont turn on you when loaded with hot lead..Good tip, thanks!The ends are parallel. I'll fix that too. See? Sharp learning curve!
I'm the gun totin, meat eatin', BIBLE readin', redneck conservative your mother always warned you about.
I wonder how stainless steel work for a bullet mold? It would seem that it's rust resistance would be a bonus.SS Would be real tough on the cherry
finstr,
I have a home made ingot mold made out of angle iron and the ends are vertical..
Don't have problem with dumping the ingots, but the mold is not as deep as yours..
Personally I would try filling one of them to see if it will dump the ingot..
If the ingot sticks then just remelt the ingot by what ever method you melted the lead in the first place..
If the ends are parralell just take a BFH & put a little draft on em , my first out of angle were squared up & welded up PURTY but the dang ingot would not come out , BFH & a little draft they flop rite out !You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum RulesWelding a handle on to make a T will make em more user friendly .
Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"
Where to get a kake kutter for pan lube 45 ACP??
cut a golf club shaft down and use thatI'm with Jailer. I've made cake cutters out of old metal shaft golf clubs for every caliber that I cast from 9mm through .45.EW
30-30 Hunting Alloy Questions
Hi guys, I have decided to shoot some deer and hogs with cast boolits out of my 30-30 this year.I have developed a load that shoots very well in my Winchester 1957 era Mod 94. (2 to 2.5 inches at 100 yds)
The bullet is the NOE 311-165 GC and I have it travelling 2150 FPS per my Oehler Chronograph.
The alloy I plan hunt with is Isotope transport lead 95-2.5-2.5 (Lead-tin-antimony).
The question is: What type of performance can I expect out of this alloy and bullet at this speed?
I think this is close to Clip on Wheel Weights + 2 % tin.
I welcome any and all experiences!
Hank
PS: For y'all that are having trouble seeing open sights but do not want a scope: I put a Fast fire mount (from Doug Turnbul) on my rifle. Then a Fast fire III Holo sight with the 3 mil dot. This is one fast sight and has put my lever action back into service for hunting.
Here is a link
http://www.turnbullmfg.com/index.asp?category=24691
NOE 360477 4-cav. Brass
Hi,
Just lucked up on a NIB NOE 360477 on the Swap&Sell site. Anyone using this mold or boolit? Was wondering about history of design,ect. Any info appreciated, will probably use this for my 38 spl. I'm going broke, saving money, on these brass molds!!!
Always looking for Dillon RL-300's!.
copy of one of the lyman 358477's out there.
this one was designed with more of a keith nose rather than the rounded noses of the past.
kinda like a mini 358429.you could look at probably 4 different iterations of the 477's noses, but they all had one thing in common.
they were accurate, and shot well in lot's of different revolvers, i even have used it in the 9mm.
it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.
Hi RFR,
Thanks for the info. Something I forgot to mention is this is a GC mold! Got me to thinking it might be fun to load this up with a hefty dose of H110 in a 357 mag case and see what it would do at 100 yd. steel plate, with my Ruger GP-100!
Always looking for Dillon RL-300's!.
I've used the #358477 Lyman for years. Runs 155 grs with WW's and seems to be as accurate, or maybe a bit better, than the #358429 Keith slug.4.3 grs of WW231 in a .38 Spcl case.....have loaded lots of them since the mid 1970's. Really never used them in .357 mags though.
Got a pile of them sitting by my Star sizer NOW waiting to get lubed.
I have a similar mold for my 357. I like it a lot but I am kinda biased to all molds that are keith type.
Hi RFR,
Thanks for the info. Something I forgot to mention is this is a GC mold! Got me to thinking it might be fun to load this up with a hefty dose of H110 in a 357 mag case and see what it would do at 100 yd. steel plate, with my Ruger GP-100!
The GP100 is a great gun for the heavy stuff. I changed my grips out for the rubber hogues. I find they are easier to control than the standard older grips.
The Lyman mold I have shoots good in all my revolvers , it`d probably do better if I`d take time to work with the loads a bit more!Interesting & curious to see how the GC version works for ya !!
Very nice work from NOE !!! I have a 360-180 DC & love it !!
I for one am interested in the results. I love the GP100's they are a great gun. I am going to have to bite the bullet and buy a gas checked one if it shoots well.
Hi,
Well I will admit I was not a fan of GC molds years ago but when you want to put some real fire behind some lead for longer distance it is the way to go! I have the NOE alum. 5-cav. in the 358429 and it has been alot of fun with the GP-100! The new alum. and brass designer molds are killing me as when I see something I could use at a good price it is hard to resist!
Always looking for Dillon RL-300's!.
I missed that being a G/C mold you should be able to put some steam behind it in that ruger.
I like that gun it almost looks like a hunter model/bisley/100 cross.
I shoot both of my 477 versions over 4.0 grs of 231,or titegroup in 38 cases through my dan Wesson, and my old rossi revolvers.
great for squirrel, and grouse hunting.
it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.
Hi,
I guess I just like things that go BOOM! Here's my Lone Eagle in 444 Marlin with the SSK designed NEI 350Gr. TC boolit! You could almost label this thing artillery! The "pistol" is very accurate though!
Always looking for Dillon RL-300's!.
What FN in MT said--my usage of Lyman #358477 duplicated his. I have a nice, new 4-cav in aluminum sitting in the cabinet that needs a heat-up and some casting work--it's still NIB!
History is always ambiguous, if honestly presented--Stephen E. AmbroseYou may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules
Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"
Small Game in Alaska
De Oppresso LiberIrag: 91,03,04,05,06,08 & 09'
Afghanistan: 09,10, & 11'
Nice Pictures. Enjoy the hunt post more pic's.
As I was told when I was a child; your elders will make you smarter if you listen. Then when you are older your edlers will teach you WISDOM.
300winmag
Nice pics, thanks for sharing. Hope you get a shot or two tomorow.
Life Member NRA, TSRA
Smokeless powder is a passing fad! -Steve Garbe
I hate rude behavior in a man. I won't tolerate it. -Woodrow F. Call Lonesome Dove
Some of my favorite recipes start out with a handful of used wheelweights.
Great pictures!!!! Really like the Eagle shot as well as the revolver.You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules
Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"
30-30/moose hunting
Boolit Master Join DateFeb 2008LocationTexasPosts558
HAHAHAHA.... I love learning new hunting techniques... never hunted from a road grader before.
Rattlesnakes from tractors, yes.
Pigs from planes yes,
But moose from a motor grader?? Not yet.Now all I need to do is find a moose within 1000 miles!!
Salvaging old Marlins is not a pasttime...it's a passion
After seeing a Core-Lokt in a 300 Win. Mag. blow up on the shoulder of a 200" buck I'd prefer to hunt with a cast boolit in the 30-30. IMHO
It's all my moose guide used in Alberta when I hunted up there. The majority of the Canadians in that area used either .30-30's or .303's. My bull moose came down with one shot from my .30-06 at 150 yds with a factory 220 Win. Silvertip. I agree with the the above post about a good hit, wait, and find them within 50 yds. That's what my guide does.
I don't think it has been said yet but assuming your uncle is here in Wyoming we are talking about Shiras moose, the smallest of the subspecies of moose. That said they are still big, a big cow can still top 1000 pounds. I don't know if I would use a 30-30 on a moose here in Wyoming but if I did I would shoot the heaviest bullet I could as fast as I could and get close. I have been able to get inside the 20 yard mark on a medium sized cow moose and inside 30 yards of a young bull....I felt pretty small.If I was set one using a 30 caliber and cast on moose I would run the 247 NOE in a 30-06 with a 50/50 Pure/WW mix at 2200 or more feet per second. If I draw this year I will probably buy a new rifle though
Doug /aka Flash
.................................................. ........................................
Sticks and stones may break my bones but hollow points expand on impact.Taxidermists are cheaper than surgeons....keep shooting
?O?O? ????
I know where I come from
How 'bout you?
Some of these guys are making it too complicated. Load your uncle some plain ol' ACWW alloy NOE 165gr 30-30 bullets to 1900 fps or so, and let that big meplat do its job. Which it will.
I've killed 9 bull moose to date, 8 with a 7mm Rem Mag and 1 with the 338WM. I go over gunned as do the guys in my camp but a 30-30 will definitely do the job, as others have said keeping shots within the limits of the cartridge. I also own a 30-30 and I'm aware of it's potential, but I choose a round with more horsepower.
Realistically, moose aren't really all that tough if you poke 'em thru the slats and stay out of the shoulder meat. I've never had a moose drop instantly from a lung shot but I also don't destroy much meat that way either.
I'm the gun totin, meat eatin', BIBLE readin', redneck conservative your mother always warned you about.
Thanks guys.
My uncle lives over in Greybull and hunts above Shell. I'm 40 miles north of Cody on the state line so its a short 80 mile jont for me to go hunting with him, which I will. I want to witness and report.
Me and the wife went with a friend of mine 2 years ago and he shot a nice bull at 30yds with a bow and yes they ARE big.Junior, thats kinda what I was thinking about doing, and I have some cast up already. Then I got to second guessing and thought I better check here first.
I sure am thinking about getting a road grader though. Sit in the cab when the wind and snow is blowing. Might be nice.
The 30-30 generally does a better job than most people expect. It penetrates simply because it isn't moving very fast - the same bullet would blow up if it were driven at 30-06 velocity. It's normal to see a jacketed slug from a 30-30 penetrate as good or better as a similar type/weight bullet from a 30-06.Moose are easy to kill but they take a while to fall down, mostly because an animal that big takes a while to bleed out. I'm going to attempt to shoot a moose this year with a 32-40 winchester using 170 gr gc wfn boolits at 1600 fps.
Last edited by jethunter; Today at 06:49 AM.
If I draw this year I will probably buy a new rifle though
You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules
Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"
Saturday, March 30, 2013
Slug Crimp Problem / Lyman sabot slug
Boolit Mold Join DateNov 2011LocationWauseon OhioPosts5
I ran out of WAA12R wads,and a search on here ,Guys were claiming they were using WAA12
white wads.
I tried these,and have not been able to get a good crimp. [I am using AA hulls]
I tried a bunch of Test loads with the WAA12 wads,and used [in a MEC 600 jr] from 40 to 90
Pounds of wad pressure.
I still cannot get the wad deep enough to get a good crimp[I am using 35 gr.4756 powder]
My crimp flares out,and when I do the final crimp,there is a hole in the middle of the fold,and the OAL is longer than a standard case.
I took them outside,and tried to feed them through my 870,and Savage,and the flared case end sometimes hangs up.
I tried the claybusters substitute,and there is a rib,full length down the center of each wad petal,and forcing a sabot slug in,would bulge the case,and it would not chamber.
When I originally tested this mold when it came out,I tried 5 different powders,and the 4756 gave the best accuracy,and best Vel.
We have a shotgun steel challange at the end of the month at our club,and it looks like I am going to have to buy slugs for now!
Can anyone tell me what wad will substitute,and actually work?
With the WAA12R wad,I could seat the wad,and drop the slug in,but with the WAA12 ,I had to drop it in the wad,and seat wad/slug together.
The wad sits so high in the case,the wad flares in with the old crimp,and trying to force the slug in,pushes the petals down into the hull.
I tried to take a claybusters wad,and use a wood gouge to take the rib out,and the base inside is smaller,and the slug will not seat all the way.
H E L P !
Sounds like you better go back to the waa12r the regular AA white wad is for 1 1/8 target loads and the AA12R is for heavier field and magnum loads. So the red wad has a much shorter cushion section than the white wad they aren't interchangeable. You shouldn't have to much problem finding them. FB
"Somebody's gotta go back and get a sh*tload of dimes"
Slim Pickens in Blazing Saddles
Boolit Man Join DateJan 2013LocationThe MittenPosts110I use the waa12r wads with mine not air what I will use when the run out I think there is a claybuster wad that matches the was12r CBWCB113812 so you may want to cheek that out another option is to cut the piston portion out of the white wads since its not really necessary with a slug and just us the seal from the bottom and the cup
silverman1:
Welcome to the CastBoolits.
I use the WAA12 wads, but there is a change in the powder, and charge. I use 30 grains pof Herco, as compared to your 35 grains of 4756. That would be one of the issues. Also, one cannot just indiscriminately change componants (wads) from one height to a taller cusion height without causing problems. If I wanted to change to a WAA12R wad, I would have to change to a different powder also.
If you have a shotshell reloaders manual, you need to check the loads for your particular case, powder, and the wad you are going to be using.
Reguards
Jack
Boolit Master Join DateMay 2009Posts668Good morning SilverMan, here is the gauge I use before I start to develop a new load:
choose your powder and wad wisely based on your hull space.Here are some of the choices of wads that I have check them for height.
Did you know 40 to 60 lbs wad pressure is normal and in case of Herco the powder company reccomends 100lbs if I'm not mistaken or drunk right now!Look carefully and you will see, I use a nitro card below slug, in wad and in some cases even two!
Life is short and we got to do what ever it takes to make us happy.
Enjoy it while you are at it!Warmest regards,
Ajay
BlazingSabots@Gmail.com
Blazing Sabots, LLC
http://www.blazingsabots.com/
www.facebook.com/BlazingSabots?ref=hl
http://www.preciousvideomemories.com/
www.facebook.com/pages/Preci...75489969155338
Assembled "stack height" is the key with using AA hulls.
Ajays pictures are "PRICELESS" when it comes to illustrating this. Noting the payload differences in the Win Red and White wads are pretty significant too. I have been using the Claybuster equivalents for 2-3 years now, as the Win AA red have been discontinued for 5+ years, without issue.
AA hulls while plentiful, may not always be the ideal choice for everything used in loading the Lyman Sabot slug.
Pete
Something you might try is to cut the gas seal and cushion legs of your white wads and use the gas seal over the powder then cut fiber wad spacers to go under the shotcup. That may allow you to use what you have available ~ length of fiber wad set to give good crimp. Hard card wads may work too but I would drop the powder charge a few grains just because there won't be as much "give" in the cushion so effectively less volume.You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum RulesIt is worth a try if you can't find what you need.
Longbow
Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"
Hello from BathCity
Boolit Mold Join DateJan 2013LocationS.E MichiganPosts2
HELLO from the water state of Michigan. I am a recently joined member and an finding many ideas in the forums. I have fairly recently begun casting boolits. I have been reading a lot of the posts here and been experimenting at the homestead. The first mold I bought is a Lee 90361 (165 gn 7.62x39, CTL312-160-2r) and began casting. I chose this mold for the better looking Ogive, at least it looks better to me anyway. These boolits are being fired from my 1903 Springfield behind 37 to 40 grains of Varget or IMR 4320.
I have experienced slight parting lines on one cavity and slightly more pronounced lines on the other. The cavity with more pronounced parting lines actually has a bit of flash at the tip. I did not wish to do anything to the mold as the boolits as cast looked ok other than the parting lines and because I am new to casting, I didn't want to a_s up the mold by pulling a newbie mistake. I began to clean the flash by hand but it was too time consuming and the results varied to much. The boolits fire ok but I thought a better method to remove the parting line / flash might result in better accuracy. I have also tried using JPW and a mix of JPW, Bees Wax and trans fluid.
I thought a bit and came up with a method that works quite well. Necessity being the mother of invention because I don't have a vibratory tumbler, I got out an old vibrating sander that I don't really use anymore and a cool whip container to see if I could make a small vibrating tumbler to use for flash removal. I don't have any special media so I used a quantity of BB's that I have as the media. After some trial and error, I worked out a method that works quite well.
I place 25 boolits in along with about a half cup of BB's and vibrate them for 3 minutes. This removes any trace of the parting lines and cleans up the base well. I water drop the boolits in water with some snow mixed in because I read on the forum this would produce a hardened boolit. I decided not to wait overnight to install the gas checks so the boolits would be softer. To install gas checks with out waiting for lube to dry, I used some Ideal Wire Lube straight, wiping the base of the boolit, put on the gas check then run it through the Lee .309 sizer right after casting them.
I then tried vibratory application of the Alox as just tumbling them by hand leaves quite a splotchy application. Vibrating the boolits in the same container I used for hand tumble lubing results in a very even, smooth and light coat of the Alox.
I apply the Alox about an hour after sizing to give the wire lube time to get tacky so that the Alox will adhere better and this seems to work well. The boolits have a even smooth amber color appearance to them this morning after drying overnight. I am unsure whether another coat of Alox is needed, I may try a second coat on a small percentage of this lot. This is the first batch I have done this way and am waiting to see how the boolits shoot with anticipation.Best Regard - BathCity
Moved to where it will be seen.
The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!
Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"
.41 mag. cylinder throat reaming
Sorry the only .41 cal. throat reamer I could find was from PTG and it was a .408 dia. Wish I could help.....I'm sure that PTG would cut you a .409 or .410 reamer, but you'd have to call for pricing.
http://shop.pacifictoolandgauge.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1The .408 was $66. What they would charge for a custom size, I do not know.
Again, wish I could be more helpful.
Last edited by John 242; Today at 01:59 AM.
Yeah, I'll think of something witty later...
John T.
Boolit Master Join DateJan 2010LocationTom, in Gloucester, VAPosts710Please don't get angry at me for suggesting it, but I would recommend that you clean and check your throats again with a plug gauge (a Sierra bullet will do). If it won't accept a 0.410" plug Ruger should fix it for you. Anything less than 0.410" is out of spec.
Yes, check a bunch of times.
You can lap the throats very easy by yourself. Do each until a boolit of the right size just pushes through. Takes time, the steel is hard but it pays off big time.
You might call Manson Reamers. They don't have a 41 cal. in the catalog but they might make one for you. I have a .431" with pilots I've been happy with.
Boolit Master Join DateDec 2009LocationMountain area of Northern CA.Posts222Thanks for the replys. I have double checked my throats prior to posting and the slugged at .408. Used a mike, not calipers to check the dia of the soft lead slugs. I am considering honing the throats out.
I had cylindersmith do a Ruger 44 special for me a while back, but he is now only doing 45 cal. per his website. I do not recall even if he did 41 cal. when he was doing other calibers beside 45.
I had Cylindersmith do my .45 Colt Blackhawk at the end of last year and at that time ask about having my .41 Mag done. My .41 (.41 Mag. Groove = .4119? Throat =.4117?.) He said, as you noted he was not doing anything but .45's and that his reamer was smaller than than my throats anyhow.
I am going to polish them with some 3M wet or dry polishing paper. Going slow and checking often.
Brooks
The second amendment is the guarantee for all the other amendments...........
Boolit Master Join DateDec 2009LocationMountain area of Northern CA.Posts222Fellas, thanks, here is a update. Problem solved. I happen to have a good flex hone of the right size. I honed all 6 throats to where I can thumb push a factory .410 jacket bullet though the throats. My push though jacket bullet was dead on at .410 with 4 measurements around the bullet. When I get a chance to get to the range, I expect better results and hopefully no more 3-4 inch groups at 25 yards.You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules
I love my two Rugers, 44 spec. and 41 mag. but both did have undersize throats that had to be opened. Cylindersmith did my Lipsey 44 Spec. Blackhawk over a year ago and it went from 3 inch groups to groups around 1-1/2 inches with my cast hunting loads.
Again thanks to all for taking the time to respond to my question.
Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"
Video Tutorial Thread
Please add your favorite video's about casting and reloading here.
To get this started I will submit a video made by a member here that goes by the handle mainejunker on youtube and revolver here.If you want to criticize every last detail please open a new thread, this thread is for helpful tips not bashing the efforts of our cast community.
brass versus nickel cases
Hi All, I'm getting ready to load up some .45ACP and have a question. I inherited a bunch of nickel cases in excellent shape. Are there any pros/cons reloading brass versus nickel??
Thanks,
Phil
Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results. - Albert Einstein
I have found the nickel plated ones don't last as well as the brass (they seem to crack sooner).That having been said I don't have anything in .45 acp. But I have found it to be true in .38 spec. .357 mag. .40 S&W .44 mag. and maybe something else I forgot. YMMV
Old retired guy in Baton Rouge.
Boolit Master Join DateDec 2011LocationWest central WyomingPosts175I see the same thing, more cracks with plated brass.
I never keep track of cases like straight walled handgun stuff and I know a lot of the plated brass I used was pretty old and have no idea how many times I reloaded it.
Also had some peel off bits of nickle plating, but I never saw any die damage from it.
Finally accumulated enough plain brass cases that I don't even use the nickle stuff anymore.
good thing about the plated is it goes early.
I have some that has had the plating all but worn off from reloading it so many times.
it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.
Imho the nickel plated ones are more brittle and do not expand (in german we say "lidern", sorry I don't know the english word) in the chamber as good as the pure brass.
And the plated ones get broken earlier.
I have a couple of 3-lb coffee cans full of W-W nickle .45's that have been reloaded so many times the cannelure is ironed out I have had NO trouble with nickle .45's. YMMV...
Echo
USAF Ret
NRA Patron
O&U
If a man is in the desert, and says something, and there are no women around to hear him, is he still wrong?
All nickel go into my scrap bucket. They may or may to give trouble, but it ain't worth it to me.You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules
Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"
lyman single cavity handle
Boolit Master Join DateMar 2008LocationmontanaPosts150
i have some mold handle i am not useing what would be a good price to sell them for?
i'll give you $25 shipped for themYou may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules
Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)