Easy Way to Remove Sizing Dies from Lyman #4500?

Boolit Bub Join DateDec 2009Posts40

Does anyone have an easy, efficient way to remove sizing dies from your Lyman #4500 Lubrisizer? Perhaps a simple tool you've adapted for this job?

Right now my method involves a lot of banging on the die from the bottom using a hammer and the small end of a larger Allen wrench, and I just have to believe there is a better way.

I thank you in advance for your expertise!

The method provided by Lyman in the instructions has always worked fine for me.

"The trouble with Socialism is, sooner or later you run out of other people's money." - Margaret Thatcher

Use a hair dryer or heat gun and heat the lube/sizer up to at least "warm". There is no need to get it any warmer than about 125 degrees (about all the average person can stand without being burned). That softens the lube which is the prime reason the die doesn't want to come out.

I have a heater for my lube/sizers and I just turn the heater on for fifteen minutes or so. Problem solved. Lyman used to package a small wrench for the die hold down nut with the sizer. If you turn that wrench sideways underneath the sizer you can use the handle to raise that die right out of the body (I don't have a picture to make this clearer). It DOES help to loosen the set screw before you try to remove the die...

Dale53

Boolit Bub Join DateDec 2009Posts40

The method provided by Lyman in the instructions has always worked fine for me.Bought it used; instructions were not included.

Boolit Bub Join DateDec 2009Posts40

Thanks for the tip!

"It DOES help to loosen the set screw before you try to remove the die..."

Boy, this is a tough crowd...

I put a .45 boolit on top of the lower ram, lift the handle, and out she comes.

The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!

+1 on the boolit, or pliers handle, wrench, or other spacer. +1 on heat too.

I've used a small block of wood with good results. Heating before hand is the secret, though.

NRA Life
USPSA L1314
SASS 48747 L

I use Lyman's four-hole, multi-use, super-spiffy die wrench.

Run the adjuster nut all the way up -- this allows maximum movement of the push rod -- turn the wrench sideways, and raise the handle.

I used to use the lock nut wrench, but it became misshaped and didn't fit the nut properly.

If you received the Lyman wrench for removing the nut that holds the die in. Don't do what I did when I first started. I didn't warm the 4500 and following Lymans' instructions promptly crushed the large end of the Lyman wrench. I had a hard time getting Lyman to replace it. Now I use the one made on this site by "the perfessor" That is money well spent.

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A man has to do what a man has to do. John Wayne

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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