Problem with lLee 9mm DC mold. Help needed!

Boolit Bub Join DateApr 2008LocationMonticello, KYPosts26

I have the Lee DC TL 124gr mold, have made about 500 bullets so far. From the get go, if I am not careful, mold will not line up right, never had that problem with any of my lee dc or lyman for that matter. ACts like a lot of slop in the you cant just close them up, you actually have to tap the ends of the mold to get the square, every time a PITA! I was thinking about clamping them in my milling machine, square, and drill a hole thru the blocks on the back away from the cavity and put a locator pin, big rounded off one. What do you guys think?

Boolit Mold Join DateFeb 2013Posts2

I had this problem and used a little bit of "door ease" to lube the pins. Just a very small amount on the alignment pins when the mold was hot and it cured the problem for me. Just make sure to keep the lube out of the mold cavities.

This is common with Lee moulds. Lee has a help video that says when closing the mould, hold it vertically. Yes, it works, but it is a PITA. Check your hinge bolt to make sure it is just tight enough to allow free opening and you don't have to fight it. Good call on lubing the locator pins. This is a must on all moulds, and critical on Lees. Synthetic 2-stroke oil and Bullplate are the best things to use. Bullplate can be bought from Bullshop, a member here. Like sawzall said, no lube in the cavities.

Set the mould on a horizontal surface, then close it. My first mould was a Lee and had the same problem, but I found the solution in the forum's archive. Since the, I automatically use the method to close all my moulds, regardless of brand.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Seating depth with gaschecks

I posted this in the Gas Check area and absolutely no responses at all. Someone with their vast experience on this board has to have a quick answer to this issue ......I hope. Maybe I titled in wrong so hopefully someone can help me here.This gascheck stuff is all new to me although I have been rolling my own for 30+ years,

I am loading for 30 Herrett and 357 Herrett and am trying to get a cast boolit load worked up. Question is , do you have to have the boolit seating depth such that the check is kept in the neck area of the case and not below the neck hanging in the open per say. I have plenty of throat depth to almost have the boolit totally out of the case so it is no problem with keeping it out far enough but some of the lube grooves are exposed in order to keep the check in the neck and not below it. I am using the Lee 30-180-SP in the 30 and Lyman 358315 200 gr in the 357.The 357 at 1st workup seems to shoot well with no leading but the boolit is way out there to keep the check in the neck. I do have it as deep as possible trying to keep as much of the lube grooves in the case as possible. Does it hurt to have the lube grooves exposed ? It is not an issue for me as it is a single shot and not a problem to use them like that just did not know if it was a good practice or not. Not be redundant but I also need to know if I can seat a gascheck below the neck area also.

I will also be doing the 357 SIG soon and that will be the same issue I am sure.......if I decide to use Gaschecks.

Nope. I seat my bullets below the neck and the results are un-noticeable. Seat your bullet as close to the lands as possible and you might find that you're not below the neck after all.

With the TC the throat is so long I can actually have the boolit barley seated and still not touch the lands so I am trying to keep it out as far as possible for better accuracy ( I hope ) but only one of the lube grooves are in the case the others are exposed at that OAL. The short necks on the 30 Herrett , 357 Herrett and 357 SIG are where I was getting concerned if I try to seat deeper.

i had read somewhere that the checks could possible pull off when they try to enter the neck if they are seated below it. Again, heresay but thought I would ask and get some opinions. When you think about it , if that were true they would try to pull off when entering the rifling also.
It is all a learning process.....

I think this is another example of theory and reality clashing. The Swiss K-31 has a short throat and seated boolit bases extend into the case body, without any apparant accuracy issues. I have a K-31 and its cast boolit accuracy is better than that of the notoriously accurate GP-1100 jacketed ammo.

Hornady and new Lyman (made by Hornady) gas checks are crimped on, and won't come off.

While the above has been my experience, it's not impossible that others have had different experiences.

I've read both sides of this discussion and am interested in replies. Some say lead exposed in the case, below the neck is apt to melt from the gasses and lead the barrel. Some say the gascheck will/can come off and destroy accuracy. Some say there is no difference at all...

Check the dates of the information. Old Lyman gas checks that did not crimp on, probably an issue in some cases. New Lyman and Hornaday gas checks that crimp on, I doubt any issue. I seriously doubt that the base of the boolit is exposed to the powder burn long enough to do any damage. After all, a plain base boolit is exposed to the powder burn no matter where it is seated.

Wayne the Shrink

There is no 'right' that requires me to work for you or you to work for me!

Boolit Master Join DateFeb 2011Posts418

The only ones i have had come off was when i was taking some out of cases.

On those that did not come off i went out and shot them at the ground.

Exposed lube grooves or deep seated boolits have never been a problem for me, I always seat out as far as I can and still have good support for the boolit.

Calamity Jake

NRA Life Member
SASS 15704
Shoot straight, keepem in the ten ring.

Thanks guys for the info so far. I quess I will head to the range with what I have so far and see what results I get. I started using the PB gas checks from Pat and they did great on my 9MM so my next step is I may try them on my 357 Sig. That is where I figured i would have the issue since the neck is so short on it. I am shooting cast in it now with fairly good results but figured if I get into major lead issues moving forward and go with the PB gaschecks I needed to know about the checks seating below the neck.

Issues with the 357 Herrett have not really been a problem just looks funky with the lube grooves exposed and seated out so far. Just gearing up for the 30 Herrett now. Quess I will try to seat a little deeper and see what the effects will be. No pressure signs at all yet.

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Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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IMR-4227 for cast 7.62x39

Hello folks!

So i've got some IMR-4227 powder right now, and figured I would see if I can load it into my AK with the boolits I just cast. (See here: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...oon-of-casting!)

Problem is, I can't find anything in any of my manuals or in any online searches. Anyone have luck using that boolit with that powder? I need some starting load data...

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9.3 specific checks work great

Boolit Master Join DateOct 2007Posts164

ordered some 9.3 specific gas checks a few months ago, finally cast some boolits and was impressed with the new checks. Unlike the 375 checks which are commonly used, no more concave or convex checks. perfect.

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Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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SAECO Precision Engineering Molds

Can anyone tell me the history/timeline of the 3 cavity SAECO Precision Engineering Molds? I have owned 3 of them, still have one. Can't find anything on the net. Checked Castpics to see if I missed anything there. Still no anwer. Would like to know when these were made, and if they are still made by Redding. Any ideas or knowledge?

One of my father's favorite statements: "If I say a chicken dips snuff, look under his wing for the snuffbox" How I was raised, who I am.

I my 2011 catelog they are still avalible by special order, retail at that time $180.00 paid in advance with a 6 to 8 week delivery time
A 4 cavity retails @225.00 .in 2011

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Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Cast bullet reload questions

Boolit Mold Join DateMar 2013Posts3

Hello all. This is my first post. I will try to keep this short. I've been reloading for about 6 years now. I have loaded lead for .38's since day one with no issues in any of my revlovers. I use an advertised hardness of 12 and keep them slow. Last year I made the switch from coated lead bullets for my 10mm's and 40 S&W to regular cast bullets due to the price increase. The advertised hardness of the bullets I bought are 16. I couldn't find any softer for the 10/40 with the exception of the 38-40 cowboy bullets. They are brinnel 12 but they have a cannelure and I don't know if they would work in the auto cartridges. From my research it seems like the bullets I have tried are too hard for slow speeds. They lead more at the start of the rifling.

The loads I have tried are with 3 different types of bullets from different manufacturers. A 155 grain lead swc over 4.0 grains of Bullseye, 175 gr swc over 3.6 grains of Bullseye, and 180 gr fp over 3.6 grains of bullseye. Any lighter than that and the gun stops cycling reliably. I get significant leading with all bullets within 100 rounds. I have shot all the rest of the bullets I had except the 175 swc. They were the most accurate so I bought more of those. I have around 800 left. I have considered trying different powders I have Unique, Power Pistol, and Blue Dot on hand. I will use what I have left and I will be buying from Missourri Bullets next time to see how they work but all their bullets are brinnel 16 or 18 for the 40 except the 38-40 bullets but I have no idea if they will work. Has anybody tried them? I want to stay with lead bullets since they are so much cheaper. My next step is casting my own but I have a lot of equipment to buy before I can start. I appreciate any help.

take your dedication for hardness and apply it to the fit of the projectile to your barrel.

how the projectile fits in your barrel probably has more to do with leading than the hardness. I would slug your barrels and then find someone who can cast the projectiles for you to the size you need, generally .001 over bore dia is a good place to start.

I second that, fit is king. When a hard CB is pushed in a light load, it will lead if the fit is not right @ aboutr .001" over barrel size. Heavy loads sometime work but a good fit is best.

God Bless America
US Army, NRA Endowment, TSRA Life
SASS, Ruger & Marlin accumulator

Boolit Mold Join DateMar 2013Posts3

My M&P Pro 40 barrel is .4005. The current bullets I have on hand are .402. I haven't slugged the other 4 barrels but I shoot the M&P the most.

+1. Fit is critical. Hardness is at best moderately imporant, and at worst - harmful.

In .38 Spl, hardness is not helpful, most likely hurtful.

In .40 (no experience in this caliber), since it is a hot cartridge, you really need good fit and
MAYBE a bit harder than .38 Spl.

In general, commercial boolits are very often 1) too small (very bad)
2) too hard (irrelevant to bad) and 3) have a marginal 'crayola lube' (very bad if
the boolit is too small and too hard).

You need to slug the barrel and use a boolit which is about .001 larger than groove diam, or
more. You need a micrometer, not a caliper for this measurement.

Bill

If it was easy, anybody could do it.

Boolit Mold Join DateMar 2013Posts3

+1. Fit is critical. Hardness is at best moderately imporant, and at worst - harmful.

In .38 Spl, hardness is not helpful, most likely hurtful.

In .40 (no experience in this caliber), since it is a hot cartridge, you really need good fit and
MAYBE a bit harder than .38 Spl.

In general, commercial boolits are very often 1) too small (very bad)
2) too hard (irrelevant to bad) and 3) have a marginal 'crayola lube' (very bad if
the boolit is too small and too hard).

You need to slug the barrel and use a boolit which is about .001 larger than groove diam, or
more. You need a micrometer, not a caliper for this measurement.

Bill

I have never had a problem with commercial .38 lead bullets in 6 years in any of my revolvers. I have always used the same bullets made by Magnus because they are reasonable and I never have leading issues with them. I shoot them slow. I am also shooting the .40 slow as well but the bullets are harder and some say that is what is causing my leading issue. I have bought cheaper bullets for the .40 and I want to cast my own but it will be awhile. I might be wrong but I think the bullets I am finding are too hard. One of my shooting buddies loads lead for .45 and uses brinnel 12 bullets and has never had leading issues. The coated lead bullets I used to use do not lead at all but they don't cost much less than plated now. They are .402 just like the uncoated lead I am using currently. I have shot the coated bullets close to 1300 fps out of my 10mm with no leading and even slow they don't lead. I guess I will just have to go back to them but I was trying to save some money.

If you have access to a kinetic boolit puller, I would recommend pulling one of your loaded 40S&W boolits, and measuring it to see if it's still .402

40S&W brass is fairly stiff, and you can easily swage down a lead boolit while stuffing it into a case. That's why many folks make and use custom oversize expander spuds for cast boolits. Most factory dies sets (with the exception of some cowboy dies) come with an expander spud that is intended for use with standard (.400) jacketed projectiles.

You might be starting out with a .402 boolit, and after pressing it into the case end up having squeezed it down to a .400 or smaller sized boolit. Either soft or hard, a .399-.400 sized boolit is a sure recipe for leading with the 40S&W.

The fastest way to see if you are having this problem is to pull a loaded round and measure it. I recommend using a micrometer to measure it with.

If you find that your boolit size is still correct after pulling a loaded round, then start to look in other places for your problem besides fit.

Be sure the barrel you are using is clean and clear of copper jacket fouling. Lead can build up on top of copper fouling in a barrel. Clean the barrel thoroughly removing ALL copper fouling with an ammonia based solvent before shooting cast.

If you still have problems try looking at the transition in the throat on your M&P pro 40 barrel. A sharp edge is much more likely to cause leading problems. A gentle smooth taper is more cast friendly, rather than an abrupt sharp edged transition to the rifling.

You could try using a slower burning powder. I have had good results using both Blue Dot and Unique with the 40S&W in my guns. I am not saying that fast powders like Bullseye or Red Dot don't work with the caliber, but often a slower burning powder can give a cast boolit a gentler shove or launch. That may give you a little more wiggle room.

I would also use a known boolit lube already proven to work.

Best of luck.

- Bullwolf

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44 mag 250 kieth ramshot enforcer powder?

[QUOTE=MtGun44;2136411]What does the powder manufacturer say is max?

Bill[/QUOT
just checked their web site,(didn't think of trying that) the max load with a 255 grain is 20.5 grains at 1428 fps and only 26000 psi pressure. Sounds like this might be a good powder for higher speeds.

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lyman 429303

I have this mold, with my alloy cast up at 205 grains, very accurate in my 44 special. was wondering why a pointed boolit? this was given to me about 25 years ago by a friend that was moving to another state. easy to cast, carries a gas check. anyone know about this mold?

TTC

it's for shooting through things.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

Boolit Bub Join DateAug 2010Posts22

Handbook of Cast Bullets, (ca. 1958) has a two page article in it detailing the genesis of the "High Velocity Penetrator" or "HiVeloPen" as they called it. It is implied that its designer, Carl Hudson, wanted something that would live up to the metal-punching promise that the .44 Magnum made but didn't quite (in factory ammo) deliver on. Guys I know who shoot it want it for penetration on thick muscled/furred animals (i.e. bears) out in the boonies. Some history.

Boolit Master Join DateApr 2005LocationIowaPosts329

Handbook of Cast Bullets, (ca. 1958) has a two page article in it detailing the genesis of the "High Velocity Penetrator" or "HiVeloPen" as they called it. It is implied that its designer, Carl Hudson, wanted something that would live up to the metal-punching promise that the .44 Magnum made but didn't quite (in factory ammo) deliver on. Guys I know who shoot it want it for penetration on thick muscled/furred animals (i.e. bears) out in the boonies. Some history.Interesting history read. I have both those molds and they do produce bullets that are fun to play with. For sure it takes the correct top punch and seater stem to keep that nice point.

v e r y i n t e r e s t i n g, thanks

TTC

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mould possibly out of round

Boolit Master Join DateJan 2012Posts153

How common is it for a mould to be slightly out of round? I ask because I used my Lyman mould for the first time to make .45 SWC's. I pushed them through the sizer and they were pretty close to size already but parts of the boolit circumference are getting sized (looking shiny), and parts are not contacting the inside of the sizer. I've noticed this also with Lee boolits. How much of a concern is this with accuracy if they are slightly out of round?

Perhaps you should measure the boolits as dropped from the mould. Sometimes the sizer can be out of alignment and cause this symptom.

But, yes, of all the moulds I own, none of them cast a perfectly round boolit. I can accept an "as cast" boolit that is .001" to .003" out of round.

You cannot discover new oceans unless you have the courage to lose sight of the shore

Rare to get a perfect boolit from any mold but .454 is right about most sizers. I went to Lee push through to get better results.
Heat on the mold will expand the center of the cavity half out and also the edges out so they will be larger at the parting line.
Until I figure how to make a cherry to cut an oblong hole, I live with it.
I have found I can make the mold hot and re-cut by hand with the cherry to get a rounder boolit.

but I think james and myself are the only two here that believe that..

it's rare to find a mold within more than .001 roundness.
it is easier to get a near round hole in a sizer die, but the barrel will quite often mess it all up again.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

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Varget dispensing

I have a RCBS uniflow dispenser and I'm loading 223 with varget. It's metering all over the scale. Is there a easier way to drop consistent loads off powder without trickling each load? I will be loading a couple thousand rounds. Hehe

2 357Maxi's
45-70
7X57 mauser
30-30
AR-15
Too many shotguns

I'm using an RCBS Chargemaster and about every third or fourth charge it'll throw heavy, just have to pour it back into the hopper and try again. The long grain Varget just doesn't trickle well. 25.4gr of Varget and a 50gr VMax are potent medicine so it's worth the trouble to me!!!!

I use the powder baffle in my uniflow and it is always with in a tenth a grain at its worst mine is case activated. Explain how you go about using yours for reloading some one here will put you on the wright path I am new on the RCBS pro 2000 and it works like a dream so I am not going to jinx it. IMR 40 64 is the powder I use the most.

Suggest you invest in a Quick-Measure. It will accurately dispense any powder, by itself or in conjunction with a progressive loader.

By itself:

On a Dillon 550B

http://www.quick-measure.com/qm.htm

Member: Orange Gunsite Family, NRA-Life, Varmint Hunter's Assn, ARTCA, American Legion, & South Cuyahoga Sportsmen's Assn.

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"An armed society is a polite society"--Robert Heinlein via Col. Jeff Cooper, USMC
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It's the stick powder I have trouble with. Everything else is pretty dead on. I'll stick with trickling each load till something better comes along. Varget is the only powder I can get readily right now.

2 357Maxi's
45-70
7X57 mauser
30-30
AR-15
Too many shotguns

Kevin, that quick charge sure looks nice. I might just pick one up soon. I saved the link, Thanx.

2 357Maxi's
45-70
7X57 mauser
30-30
AR-15
Too many shotguns

When loading "stick powders I use my harrels now, dang are they accurate with any powder. My rcbs uniflow worked much better with the micrometer conversion and a powder baffle. I made my powder baffle from an old plastic pop bottle, It can be cut out oval so it can be folded to fit then a couple notches cut in the lower edges ( each side) to allow powder to flow consistently with out allowing wieght to affect compression. Then you need to play with baffle hieght to find the sweet spot for the powder you are using. Also try the passage notches front and back and also side to side, it sometimes makes a diffrence. I have a redding benchrest also that works fairly well but have yet to find one that equals may Harrels. Consistency is the key to accuratly dropping charges ( why measures on progeressives work so well). Handles need to be operated at the same speed force every time, same "bump" top and bottom of stroke, a consistent level of powder maintained in the hopper. Onmy RCBS uniflow I had 2 piece of tape on the hopper full and lower level. Above that point and wieght ? compression into chamber wasnt consistent. Below lower level and again compression into the chamber wasnt consistent. Set down a couple evenings and drop and record charges with varget. The written wieghts will tell the tale. You will see where the sweet spots are with varget. May take a couple hoppers full of powder to really prove the findings.

Thank CG for all that info. I'm still learning, pretty new still. I'll play with it and make a baffle. I need to make a new sturdier stand for it also, it vibrates a little more than I wanted. My strikes & taps are consistent. Just need to tune it a little. Or just buy the quick measure. Hehe

Thanx again

2 357Maxi's
45-70
7X57 mauser
30-30
AR-15
Too many shotguns

I just punch in the charge I want and hit enter.
then enter, then enter, then enter.
it goes as fast as I can seat the bullet and put it in the box.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

I have both a Uniflow and a Lee powder measure. I use the Uniflow for ball and flake powders and the Lee for extruded.

The biggest thing Ive seen with the rcbs uniflow and lyman 55 also the reddings to an extent is "managing" the powder in the hopper correctly. Learning to keep it in that sweet spot really helps. The rcbs micrometer conversion's plug is concave which leaves no sharp corners to fill on not fill, but with that some smaller charges may be unobtainable. I have an rcbs uniflow that spent 3 months with me at work. When I got a spare moment I would work on it. Main rotor hole was Jig ground round true and square. In flow and out were taper reamed and polihed, A new drum made up with a precission fit, side plates made to limit end play. and the mic conversion reinstalled. Alot of preccison work that didnt gain alot other than a warm fuzzy feeling. LOL. The Baffle will do the most after the Micrometer conversion if they are still available. A straight edge dividers calipers and sharp siccors are all you need to make a baffle. Cut a square from the center of a 20 Oz pop bottle. Cover with masking tape ( 1 layer is fine) with a sharp pencil or sharp scribe make a straight line and a cross 90 degs to it in the middle. another mark 3/4" on each side of the center line. These are your center spacing fo each half circle. Measure the Dia of the inside of the hopper with the calibers. Set the dividers to half this dimension and scribe the radiouses of each 3/4" line. with the straight edge mark the radiouses together. you now have your oval to cut out fold in half dont crease it. Lay out the notch you want I used 1/2" wide at the bottom to 1/4" wide at the top 3/4" long on each side. If you have a 1/4" hole punch that makes a great radious for the top of the notch. Fold the piece in half a couple pieces ot tape will help hold it do not crease. Cut the notch in both pieces with the scissors. Fold it and it should slip in the hopper and then spring tension should hold it in place. Play with the hieght notch width as needed. You can make new up as need and not be out anything. Any thin plastic. Milk carton, liquid soap bottles, ect ect will work well, and are normally thrown out as trash.
Im not sure if the RCBS Micrometer conversion is still available but one could easily be made on a lathe or a drawing made and taken to the local Trade school where one of the students could make it easily from an bolt of the correct thread.It dosnt have to be a deep radious justenough to break the sharp edges with the drum. full diameter and about .060-.090 deep. May even be able to have the machine it into the original if the head is thick enough. Hope this helps

Boolit Bub Join DateAug 2012LocationManitoba CanadaPosts22

I'm not the first to suggest it, but my little Lee does really well with extruded powders.
It didn't like fine powders, spit them all over the place, but some little effort with some lapping compound has it sorted.
For less than $30, it's an inexpensive experiment.
One of those Quick Measures does look pretty nice though...

I trickle every load, thats how each one is right on the money.

My Old man used Ball C L2 in all his 22s, did 7-800 yard kills every year.

Ball powder works easier in small cases and powder drops

I have sworn on the altar of GOD eternal hostility against every form of tyranny over the mind of man.

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Javelina lube no longer avaialble?

Gentlemen;

I recently went to Midway and tried to buy some Javelina for my outfit.

The sales fellow told me (in some surprize) that it had been discontinued by the manufacture.

What is happening?

More to the point; what can I replace it with?

I looked around The Fouling Shot data sheets and found that LBT Blue (Soft) was the most popular lube posted there. ~ Any comments?

Good afternon,
Forrest

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Looking to buy lube

I want to buy some lube for pan lubing, it is for a NOE 225-55 an RCBS clone with a gas check I think. I have only ever tumble lubed so this is my first time dealing with pan lubing. Does any one here on the forum sell a good pan lube for what I want. I will be shooting this out of a AR-15.

Thanks

it is a gas check.
one of my stars is set up for the rcbs boolit right now.
bring your boolits and some gas checks over and run them through it.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

I am waiting on gas checks still, and I moved out past Burley this summer to take a job, so I am a little farther away.

I think I am going to try your simple lube, how do you think it will hold up for shooting in an AR?

Last edited by grubbylabs; Yesterday at 12:08 PM.

mike
mag dumped four 30 round mags straight, of simple lube and the same boolit through his ar.
he is happy with it.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

Where have you found been wax? I cant seem to find any.

Bees wax? Make a local beekeeper your friend.

randy rat in the vendor sponsor ( maybe under allabee's now ? ( S ? ) ) section right above the swapping and selling section ...but i have to agree with making a local beekeeper your friend !! life is sweeter with honey !!!!

" To sit in judgment of those things which you perceive to be wrong or imperfect is to be one more person who is part of judgment, evil or imperfection."
Wayne Dyer if it was easy would it be as worthy ? or as long of lasting impression ? the hardest of lessons are the best of teachers [shrugz]

RandyRat is cheaper than my local beekeepers. They all get $8 a clean pound! They're all in cahoots, I tell ya! (the local guys, I mean). I also get TAC#1 from Randy, it makes for great pan lubing. Smells nice too.

I got a bunch from dj a while back when he went and removed a huuuge bees nest from the wall and attic of a house.
I still have 8-9 pounds I bought from randy when gear and I started doing "the quest" lube tests just so we had the same ingredients to work from.

randy's tac is a good lube, and isn't much more than just the wax.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

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My First NOE mold

I just bought my first NOE mold and so far it is OK, but how do you all keep the spru plate screw tight enough to not be a pain in the rear. So far this is the only mold I have had this problem with. It swings pretty wildly after the first whack or two.

It was interesting getting used to casting such a small bullet, but it is a very nice looking mold and once I got it up to temp it seemed to do just fine.

There is a set screw in the side of the mould block to keep the sprue plate screw from backing out. Warm up the mould, snug the screw till the plate is how you like it, and lock it with the set screw.

That is exactly what to do first casts with a NOE mold I was frustrated till I noticed the set screw , tightened and it is a dream now , Quite a heavy sprue plate on a 4 cavity , my what a sweet piece of machined work when you get it going and see how and what to do , am going back and forth with a 9mm mold that throws beautiful boolits , and then casting with a mihec mold for .357 , and also a NOE for the .45 , they are all great and am having a blast . Fine molds , wish to get more .

Boolit Buddy Join DateFeb 2011LocationVermontPosts60

I had to leave mine on the loose side or the base did not fill out well. Had to have enough space for the air to escape. I got the 5 cav. 44 200 gr RF , it seems to be a nice mold.

I snip a piece of copper wire to go in the hole 'tween the sprue plate screw and the set screw. Helps the set screw snug up without damaging the Sprue plat screw. I like to run my sprue plate loose to, something is too tight if you need to whack it, mine will move under its own weight.

I used a #9 shot pellet under my screw--seems to hold fast and hasn't melted. Had the pellets on the bench when I was looking for something to keep the screw threads from getting messed up

NRA Life
USPSA L1314
SASS 48747 L

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Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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changing lubes in a sizer

If I want to try another lube in my sizer should I clean out the previous lube, and if so how?? Or could I just add the new type on top of the old and run it until I start getting the new stuff???

Melt it out. Either boil the whole thing in a pot with some dishwashing detergent (1 teaspoon per gallon of water) or use a heat lamp, heat 'gun', blow dryer, or the sizer base heater if you have one.

Gear

You can't fix Stupid, but you can occasionally head it off before it hurts something. --Stephen Adams

Being able to separate the wheat from the chaff has always been a valuable skill in all of life's activities. --Bwana

Boolit Master Join DateMar 2011Posts940

Isn't it amazing that no one has developed a lube sizer cartridge, like a caulking gun so you could change lubes easily...???

What a PITA to change lubes......

I use a heat gun to get mine out.

Boolit Bub Join DateJan 2013LocationSudbury, ONPosts24

+1 for the heat gun, if your using hard lubes. For soft lubes like SPG, & DGL, I remove the sizing die and use a cordless drill with the proper 1/4" drive socket, and spin the screw in the same direction as "lubing" (COUNTERCLOCKWISE) and squeeze the lube out of the die cavity. Then I apply the heat gun for the last bits of lube. Works for me!

Mike

I know I have a problem! I'm not asking for a cure.......just the next fix!

Boolit Man Join DateApr 2012LocationDetroitPosts127

If you have a boiler at your work, ask it's operator to stick it under his water sample blow out.

I'm a boiler operator, and when I need to clean out lube I take it to work and in about 6 seconds all the lube is gone. I also use it to melt the mystery lube out of bullets so I can use TAC#1 on them instead.

I guess 212 degree water at about 50 psi is just about perfect for getting rid of problem wax.

"Just try to remember which end makes the bad guys go away."

Del-Ray-----Is Tac#1 a lube---why do you like it, etc, etc---where do you get it, etc, cost, etc
thanx HM77

Thanx Lotto---now I have something else to try and invent---but it would definitely be worth it ???

handy man the tac#1 is a lube you get here from vendor sponsor RandyRat as for price I don't remember, I haven't shot a lot with it but it worked well when I used it, check him out in the vendor sponsors section. Hope that helped out.

Change? Not this type. Can we just have a refund?

Boolit Man Join DateApr 2012LocationDetroitPosts127

Indeed give randyrat a PM. TAC#1 is a medium hardness line.
I've used it for 45 colt, 44mag, and several other calipers. No leading. And those 44's were REALLY cruising. Keith must have been an investor in Tylenol.

"Just try to remember which end makes the bad guys go away."

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Acceptable performance from 308?

I've been developing a load using a Mihec 311180 in a Ruger M77MkII for a good buddy of mine.
The boolits fall from the mold a little light and I've weight separated them. The first lot weighing 171.0-171.9g unlubed and no check.

Using a Hornady check, Bens Red lube, Winchester primer, Hornady match brass and WC 844T I've found the sweet spot at 30.5g. It will shoot a 10 shot group inside 1.5 inches with most holes touching at fifty yards. After 100 rounds three dry patches removed the soot and the bore was sparkling.

Recoil is almost nonexistent. Feeding is flawless.

One round was fired into (4) two liter bottles full of water. The first three were obliterated (seriously! Pieces everywhere!)and the bullet entered but did not exit the fourth. Expansion was picture perfect and the recovered slug weighed in at 154g. Not bad weight retention I think.

I'm not much for a hunter but what do you guys think about that for white tail deer inside 150-200 yards?
I could push it faster but accuracy was starting to suffer badly at 31.5g and 32.0g. As in five inch groups at best.

I'm surprised after 100 rounds , you could even see the rifling shooting with Ben's Red.

You know em' ole lead bullets ain't no good !

Ben

Last edited by Ben; Yesterday at 01:02 PM.

I swear the ole boy for whom I'm loading said he'd heard the same thing about cast boolits but he trusts me and now....well, he just grins and shakes his head.

He doesn't cast or reload yet but he did ask me "Where's all these idiots on the Internet and gun shop counters come from? It's plain as day they don't know what the hlll they're talkin 'bout. Sorry I doubted you. "

I once read of a man who shot in cast bullet competition with a Springfield 1903-A3. He traveled from shoot to shoot.

Seems he fired about 800 rounds through his rifle winning many of the competitions and placing high in the remainder that he didn't win.

Guess what ,.............. he never cleaned his bore.

Yes, there are A LOT of people with exaggerated misunderstandings about cast bullets in center fire rifles.

Through the years, people have listen to ( and believed ) a lot of BS generated in coffee shops, etc. about how bad lead bullets are for a rifle.

Ben

Did you do a rifling setback test also? You need to be able to hit the lungs at any range...that's the size of an 9" paper plate roughly. You should be ok with that level of accurady.

No. Didn't. I seated the boolit out as far as I could without exposing the single lube groove but still giving myself something to crimp on to.

I'd say that was/is a very acceptable load........

Larry Gibson

I remember my first cast boolit hog. I used a TC Encore pistol chambered in 308. With a 170 grain boolit traveling just over 1500 fps, at 75 yards it gave me a DRT on a 220 or so pound hog. My wife witnessed it. Your load is more than adequate for deer and hogs out to 200 yards. Shoot it a lot, learn it, love it.

I came into this world kicking, screaming, and covered in someone elses blood. I plan to go out the same way.

Thanks guys. I kinda figured so, I just want to share another success. We're gonna step it back to 100 and then 200 yards. If all goes well, I'm going to set up some more water jugs and see what it'll do at 200 yards. If he can hit that milk jug at 200, he'll be taking deer with it this winter.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
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