anyone know the difference?

Two totally different cartridges.

One short & fat:

The other sleek and svelt:

I'd consider getting a bushing conversion set and expanding your options
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/858110/hornady-lock-n-load-press-and-die-conversion-bushing-kit

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Sourcing unfired cases: is this an alternative?

Finding components, or at least widening my choices is a real challenge here.

One member, who has left me in no doubt that they know what they are talking about, recently recommended I develop some loads I have in mind using new cases, given the sort of performance I am hoping to get from the cartridges.

No one stocks .44 cases in this country, as far as I know, and Midway are dry!!

So wear can I find unfired cases?
One thought came to me: unfired factory loads.

Could I buy .44 Mag Magtech rounds, which one shop sells, pull the bullets and decap the cases to leave me with a few extra components and unfired cases? Voila!

Would these be new enough despite having had a 240gr bullet seated and crimped in them?

__________________
You cannot wake someone who is pretending to sleep. Stop pretending. Wake up. Doubt: ...it's the only thing I'm sure of...-Marsupials: Nature's idea of Concealed-Carry-

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Weaver mount for Ultradot

Ruger 10-22 scope mount for Weaver K4 wickedsharp Rifle, Shotgun and Handgun Scopes 4 04-16-2009 06:50 PM

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Reloading 223 with lead bullets and other advice?

Hello All!

I've decided to finally start wading into rifle reloading. I have quite a bit of experience reloading handgun cartridges(38spl, 357mag, 9mm, and 45ACP/Super but I've never dealt with necked brass.

What I want is some basic advice on getting started with 223:What to do, what to look out for, what to definitely NOT do. I will be shooting these exclusively in a single shot and bolt action rifles. I also plan to shoot lead out of it because I'm a caster and lead runs in my veins(figuratively and hopefully not literally)

I have the case lube, Lee dies, and my trusty Lyman Book with the recipe.

So any help will GREATLY appreciated!
Thanks in advance!

EDIT: Also I WANT to cast for 223 but not sure what mold to get. Just the quick look I've given provides no solid "THIS IS THE MOLD FOR 223". Any advice there would be appreciated as well.

__________________
"A weapon without a name is nothing; Just another hunk of steel, wood, or what have you. A weapon with a name is more. It is a partner, a friend, and a comrade to the end"

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choosing a full size .45acp semi-automatic

Don't fret over the grip safety, it only has enough tension to hold itself upright. If you don't have enough grip on the pistol to depress it, when you fire it you'll lose it or get a dent in your forehead anyway.

My vote would be an XDM compact, it is large enough for a night stander with the extended mag, and if you ever want to carry you just swap to a 9 rounder and it rides comfortably.

One note.. If you handle a Springfield, try to find one that has had a few hundred rounds through it. All of mine have been stiff for about the first 400 rounds.. They function perfectly, but the slide is harder to rack and the slide and magazine releases are stiff. They start to loosen up after those few hundred rounds and everything is easier to operate.

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First Carry Gun :D

Picked up my first carry gun after moving from IL () to WY.

ATI plain jane 1911. factory 8 round mag, 2 Chip McCormick 10 round mags, a Tagua mag carrier and a Tagua OWB paddle holster. Enough data, time for pics:

Shot a box of 50 PMC 230 grn FMJ target loads and two boxes of 20 Hornady 200 grn HP rounds. The PMC fed and fired great, but one of the 50 was a light load and the next round didn't seat all the way in the chamber. I'm guessing its because of the stout factory recoil spring. The Hornady cycled well, but required complete release of the slide (couldn't really let it drop gradually) or it would get stuck on the feed ramps. Shoots low but from what I hear it is common. Need to file down the front sight a bit.

All in all I really enjoy the way the gun shoots and think I am going to have a comfortable and reliable carry gun

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FN semi-automatics

If I am not mistaken the FNP is striker fired. You're mistaken. The FNP is a hammer fired DA/SA pistol, like the FNX. You're thinking of the FNS, which is striker fired. It came out before the FNX. The FNP is decocker only, the FNX adds the ability of that decocker to work as a safety. Grip texture, styling, and overall size are a bit different between them. Both the FNP and FNX are nice pistols. __________________
Guns don't kill people. Apes with guns kill people! - Robin Williams

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.357 mag and 10mm gelatin tests

.357 test video

Underwood .357 158 gr Hex plated fired from 4" S&W Model 13 through four layers of denim into calibrated gelatin.

BB calibration: 585.0 fps, 3.1"

Impact velocity: (err)
Penetration: 27.5"
Retained weight: 157.7 gr
Expansion: None

A few notes on this one. It was overcast, making it difficult to get a good velocity reading. Underwood advertises 1,475 fps for this load and their claimed velocity is usually very close to actual. One shot curved and left the block on the bottom, the other came very close to exiting the block on the top. I cannot say for sure whether there was expansion on the shot that exited but based on the dramatically larger stretch cavity, I think it is likely. Nevertheless, this bullet is at least capable of failing to expand. Recoil was mild for a .357 mag.

10mm test video

10mm Atomic 180 gr Hex plated fired from 4.5" bbl EAA Witness through four layers of denim into calibrated gelatin.

BB calibration: 585.0, 3.1"

Impact velocity: 1,251 fps
Penetration: greater than 17.7"
Retained weight: N/A
Expansion: N/A

Both shots experienced significant fragmentation and deviated, exiting the side of the block.

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1911 Magazine in a Glock 21

So, yes, it is possible. Here's proof:

It seated and locked. And there was much gnashing of teeth during the removal process. Just because something can be done, doesn't mean it should be done.

Fortunately, the gun was unable to chamber a round.

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In the depth of winter I finally learned that there was in me an invincible summer.
--Albert Camus

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8x56R load data

going for my black belt in google-FU I came across a few threads where some shooters developed their own loads because the data out there(notably lee data) is based on 8x57 mauser and often too anemic and causes problems so they went and developed their own. I paired that data along with the data from my handloader MG and added a couple lighter loads due to something looking off with the IMR 3031 data and made a pseudo half-assed reloading sheet for 8x56R. so here it is.

8x56R Hungarian.
Bullet diameter. 329-330
COAL 3.012"
Test barrel 19.5"

1938 nazi marked surplus ammo 208gr FMJ(2337-2400 fps)

Buffalo Arms 150GR Spire Point(329)
PWDR -------weight----FPS(MUZZLE)------SD(where applicable)

IMR 4064----44.0------2150

IMR 4895----46.0------2252

IMR 3031----44.0------- ? (added due to excessive velocity of existing data)
--------------47.0 -----2489(higher than recommended max)

Varget-------46.0-----2168

Grafs/Hornady 205GR Spire Point(330)
PWDR------weight ----FPS(MUZZLE)----SD(where applicable)

IMR 4064----44.0-----2083
--------------47.0------2256-------------34 (supposedly equivalent to modern factory loads)

IMR 4895----45.9------2168

IMR 3031----44.0------ ? (added due to excessive velocity of existing data)
--------------47.0-----2355(higher than recommended MAX)

Varget-------46.0-----2155
--------------49.0-----2268------------56 (supposedly equivalent to modern factory loads)

if anyone has some data that can fill some of the gaps in this list please feel free to post so I can get it as detailed as possible, heck maybe we can submit it to Hogdon and get it published.

I've noticed that in most of the manuals I've looked at a lot of the cartridges that have both 4064 and 3031 data call for less 3031 to get the same velocity which is why I am perplexed as to why the 3031 had the hottest loads, hence the addition of a lighter load with an unknown velocity. if anyone is willing and able to test that load with a chrono and give their .02 that would be great.

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all guns lost in a tragic smelting accident.
I never said half the crap people said I did-Albert Einstein
You can't believe everything you read on the internet-Benjamin Franklin
Bean counters told me I couldn't fire a man for being in a wheelchair, did it anyway. Ramps are expensive.-Cave Johnson.

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Questions on EAA Windicator

I've got an opinion, I hope it helps.

I'm a hardcore revolver lover and I have many, but I don't think I'll ever have enough of them. They are pure handgunning and they may not be for everyone, but it's my belief that if you don't own one and you've never spent any quality time with a decent one, you will never understand what you are missing. That's fine... leaves more for me and all that.

My brother in law and frequent shooting buddy bought a snubby EAA Windicator, and it's his first center fire revolver. He's got horribly low money in to it and even did a partial trade for a gun that he wanted to be rid of. For sure, it was the low price that drew him in. He's probably got nearly a thousand rounds through it (all .38 Special) and he's enjoyed every bit of it. He does most all of his shooting at 7 yards and accuracy and tiny group shooting isn't at the top of his list -- having fun in short sessions with his busy schedule and staying familiar with his guns and his carry guns are his goals. He shoots it single action, cocking before every shot.

For him, the Windicator has been a whole lot of fun. I've shot the gun on three different occasions and at it's incredibly low price point, it seems to be somewhat of a bargain in my eyes. It seems like a decent quality revolver for a price far below most revolvers. In the price range (or less) of a Taurus or Rossi or Charter, and with this -ONE- example, it seems to be every bit as good as one of those. If someone NEEDED a small revolver to put in a defensive role and they had only a shoestring budget, I would look at one closely while shopping and if the ones I saw were like the one my bro-in-law bought, I'd probably choose it over the Taurus/Rossi/Charter.

With that said... I'm a -huge- revolver guy and have many, and have zero desire to own one of these at any price point. For me, it doesn't offer what I want from a revolver. For others, it certainly does. I want accuracy, I want a legendary design that has been refined over time because it works and I want, probably more than ANYTHING, to shoot it double-action all the time. That's what I enjoy.

If you want a revolver for recreational shooting, to see if you love revolvers and to see if you'll get drawn in by all that is grand about them, I think it's a poor choice for that particular goal.

My suggestion would be to literally take that cash you'd spend on one, lock it in a piggy bank or cookie jar on your dresser, and throw $10 or $20 a week at that jar until you can go to a gun show or your favorite shop and pick out a great used Smith & Wesson revolver, 4 inch or 6 inch, a K-frame or an L-frame if you find a good deal on one.

If you are lucky to be near a place that contracts with LE trade-ins, go find yourself a beat-up looking former duty Smith & Wesson Model 10 (.38 Special) and you'll spend no more than three hundred on it and it will give you a terrific introduction to the pure joys of the revolver platform.

It'll be more enjoyable to shoot, higher in quality, and give a lifetime of service, none of which I would feel comfortable saying about the Windicator.

Doesn't mean the Windicator is a bad gun. Definitely doesn't mean the Windicator isn't worth $225. What I am saying is that if you don't own ANY revolvers and you want to know why the folks who spend most of their time here in the revolver forum love revolvers so much -- don't buy a Windicator to find out. Go buy a Smith & Wesson or a Ruger GP-100.

__________________
Attention Brass rats and other reloaders: I really need .327 Federal Magnum brass, no lot size too small. Tell me what caliber you need and I'll see what I have to swap. PM me and we'll discuss.

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My 10/22 Shoots One Ragged Hole with Factory Barrel

I took my 10/22 to the range today to sight in a scope I just mounted. This is a 2011 vintage Ruger Charger that I assembled into a Carbine. I bought a used barrel from a member at RimfireCentral, and a birch Sporter Deluxe stock off of Ebay. I sent the barrel to Jim Pixley to be threaded, front sight remounted, and muzzle re-crowned. At 25 yards, with just my left forearm rested against the rail at the range, it shoots one ragged hole, with my suppressor attached(SilencerCo SS Sparrow) It does this with all 3 ammo types I took today, Federal bulk, Blazer bulk, and CCI Standard Velocity. I was shocked. The gun is completely stock, with the exception of the barrel re-crown. I didnt shoot the barrel before sending it to the machinist. I dont know how accurate it was in stock form. It is a recent barrel with all the bad lathe rings, and matt finish.

I have had a 10/22 since 1986. I sold that first one and bought a stainless 10/22 when they came out. I still have it. I think that was around 1991. I haven't shot it in years, but don't really remember it being inaccurate. Why do people knock the 10/22 as being inaccurate? The one I shot today sure isn't. Did I just get lucky, or did the re-crown make the difference?

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MY wife's new cat

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Stinging my face!

Boolit Bub Join DateJan 2013LocationMilan, MIPosts35

When I shoot loads out of my .30 cal carbine revolver loaded with Win. #296 powder I get a lot of stinging particles hitting my face and it is quite uncomfortable. Is this normal for this powder or is my barrel gap too wide??? This also happens with some of my .357 revolvers and 296.

Feeler guages will tell you, but M1A eyeball will do pretty good. Should be a SMALL amount of light coming through. If you can slide a business card in there, it's too much.
And what bbl length? But I imagine the 30 Carbine is a fairly long bbl, so Never Mind...

Echo
USAF Ret
NRA Patron
O&U
If a man is in the desert, and says something, and there are no women around to hear him, is he still wrong?

Boolit Master Join DateMar 2005LocationWashington StatePosts246

The only time that has happened to me (2 or 3 times) the revolver was out of time. The boolit is hitting the forcing cone out of alignment shaving lead. The revolver (s) need to be repaired (timed) IMO.

That is normal for my Carbine in a short gun, sorry
2400 will do the same thing
I use a ski mask with eye holes, safety glasses, and DOUBLE ear protection (plugs and muffs)
I feel this is unburned powder escaping,
It is not fun, please check out your gun for the following ailments (see links below)
Mike

some fun reading

http://rugerforum.net/ruger-single-action/10440-looking-used-blackhawk-30-carbine.html

http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1401254

p.s. shoot the carbine next to a piece of white cardboard and see it the spitting is powder or lead shavings

Last edited by skeettx; Yesterday at 02:21 PM.

NRA Benefactor 2004

Echo was talking about the gap between the cylinder and barrel...Too tight and a few shots your pistol will lock up from heat expansion, too loose and you get splatter. I'm not a pistol smith so I don't know the correct gap size for your pistol...Seems to me it is about 2K to 6k..It can be tightened up with a correct size shim...the other problem which could be is out of TIME that needs work from a pro or someone that knows more than me.
I would start by checking the gap...Hopefully it is not common to those carbine cartridge pistols

.30 carbine from a handgun is the loudest report I have ever heard.

Shiloh

"A society of sheep must in time beget a government of wolves."
Bertrand de Jouvenel

?Any government that does not trust its citizens with firearms is either a tyranny, or planning to become one.? ? Joseph P. Martino

?If you put the federal government in charge of the Sahara Desert , in five years there would be a shortage of sand.? ? Milton Friedman

.004"-.006" cylinder gap. Tighter and a burned kernel of 296 will stop the cylinder from turning. Auto Parts stores have feeler gauges cheap.

Make sure the cylinder locks up every time.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Anyone using Rem Small Pistol Primers ?

Anyone using Rem Small Pistol Primers ? I use lots of them. I assume you are talking about the 1 1/2 primers, not the 5 1/2 mag primers.

I follow the recommendation and don't use them in 40 S&W, 357 Sig and 357 Mag of higher pressure loads.

On a couple of revolvers that had high firing pin protrusion, a few cracked in the center. To keep this from happening, I uniformed the pockets and switched to CCI primers. I don't know if the Rems would have cracked again after uniforming, but I didn't want to take a chance on eroding the tip of the firing pin.

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Morning at the club with my Monty

I just bought a Benelli Montefeltro, and could not wait to get out to the range to shoot it. THis is my first shotgun and I was a little worried about the recoil, but must say that after shooting two boxes of 25 shells, it was plenty gentle enough.

Some things observed so far:

Recoil is minimal
Gun aims VERY well, and is more accurate than I am.
Only had time for 50 rounds, but the gun had zero problems.
Gun breaks down and cleans easily.
She's pretty...

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Pistol powder in a .308

Though I have not done it in a .308, I have done reduced loads in .30-30, .35 Remington, and .30-06 using Red Dot...

You might find this interesting...It is a reprint of the old C E Harris article titled "The Load":

http://members.shaw.ca/cronhelm/TheLoad.html

This link is where I acquired the data for loading Red Dot in my lever actions:

http://www.gmdr.com/lever/lowveldata.htm

As for:

But if you must, here is a photo of your future. I highly doubt that picture has anything whatsoever to do with low doses of fast powder...

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My wife's new cat

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Advice for cheapest .223 and 9mm loads possible

Hi guys and girls. This is a topic that might be of interest to other like minded cheapskates, like me.

I am a little shocked by the current cost of components. Ten years ago I was able to reload 50 rounds of 9mm for about $4. I just assembled my first box today, and my math says I paid $9 for 50 rounds (cost of powder, primer, and projectile). This price doesn't include brass (or the reloader and dies, etc) bc brass can be reused, unlike primer, powder, and projectiles. Adding to my costs is that bc I'll be shooting through a silencer, I have to shoot all jacketed projectiles. I'm not sure what unjacketed projectiles would do if shot through an mp5, even unsilenced.

I don't consider time to be a cost factor bc I enjoy reloading, it doesn't seem like a job, and I can crank em out with my Dillon 650.

Question. I will be shooting .223 out of a full auto m16, and 9mm out of a full auto mp5. This means accuracy is not important. I just want the loads to cycle the action.

What is the cheapest possible powder, per load, that can be used for .223? Cheapest for 9mm?

I'm curious, per 50 rounds of 9mm, what are your costs? How about cost of 20 rounds of .223?

For anyone curious. I did the math on my new reloading set up. I'm using a fully equipped Dillon 650 with all possible upgrades. After the cost of dies and other equipment, like scale, trimmer, brass cleaner, etc, I would have to shoot 15,500 rounds just to break even.

My reloading set up costed $2500. I'm saving $8/box of 50 9mm (I save $8 a box bc at Cabellas a box if 50 is $17, and it costs me $9 a box). At that rate, I would have to shoot 312 boxes, or 15,600 rounds, just to break even.

I forgot to include, I had to pay $500 for my reloading bench. So that's $500 more.

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Another 9mm 115 gr FMJ with Unique Question

I don't have a reason not to go with your suggestion, unclenick. It sounds reasonable to me. Is this from your experience, or do I need another manual?

Or maybe my thread searching skills are severely lacking.

I'm not looking for any particular power factor, either. Just a nice, decent, accurate load for a Glock G19 (for target practice), using the components I have available. And I'm trying to get better at figuring out loads without always needing to jump to my lifelines.

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Reloading Manuals ???

Ok, I'm fairly new to reloading. I am mainly going to load pistol calibers, for the mos part 9mm(mostly), 40 S&W, and some .45 ACP. I have a fair supple of both HP38 and Titegroup from hodgdon(could get some HS6 as well so far these have metered very well from my Lee press). I have the Lee loading data sheets for all 3, as well as the Lyman 49th edition book, and the Hodgdon data. What other manuals are out there worth investing in. I don't want to spend the money on a manual just to find out it has the same basic info as what I've already got. Price isn't so much the issue as just wanting to spend wisely.

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most accurate .35 wadcutter??

Im just now gonna revisit the 38 special,cause i found a 8.375 inch model 14.Think i will have some fun!!

Anyways, was wondering what peoples opinion is on the most accurate wadcutter for the 38? Lyman makes many shapes and weights.Why did they make so many? I have a 358091,,how does this rate amongest the herd?

Also have a 35887,,that weighs around 120 grs,compared to the 091 that weighs 146,,,,will this lighter weight boolit shoot as good as the heavy one??

I realize that all guns are different,but am just wondering about this subject.Im thinking about buying a 4-5 cavity to use instead of the 2 hole 091. Looking for opinions on which one to buy..

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Archery question ...

Happiness is a warm, Gut-Pile !!! ..... only to us I am a little concerned about having a deer with an arterial bleed running across the deck/driveway of a neighbor that might not be a hunter It's a valid concern but it's going to happen sooner or later. In our area, there are incidents like this and it even makes the local news. On one occasion, a deer decided to drop dead on a bike path and scared a bunch of folks. ...

They call them city hunts but they are actually more of a conservation effort. Gardeners don't like us shooting deer until they start eating their beautiful flower garden. As stated, we can only do our best, in our own best ways. Go the extra mile, in the city than you would, in the woods.

Case in point;
Last year some hunters shot a deer in a very exposed area. They drug it about 50yds. into some trees and then proceeded to gut it. ..
They left a broad blood trail in the snow as well as the Gut-Pile. ..
We all know that with a little extras effort, they could have covered the trail and removed the Gut-Pile .......

Be Safe !!!

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Winchester Model 70 or Tikka T3 Lite Rifle ?

Yesterday, 01:58 PM One of the hardest kicking rilfes I've ever shot was on of those feather weight model 70, 270's. Trust me, I have some big bore rifles, 300mag and 338 mag, and neither of those ever put a hurting on me like that Winchester did, and I'm not recoil shy or sensitive.

I have a pre-64 270 I haven't shot in 40 years, but if I was going to buy an new one, it would probably be the Tikka. That's strickly based on the way the two I have shoot. A couple of years ago I bought a T3 Lite 243 for my granddaughter, but she didn't like it's recoil. That one was so flipping accurate, I was wanting a 22-250 and didn't want to wait a year to get one built so I figured I'd try one in the Tikka Varmint. It to is amazingly accurate. Don't know about other's experience with them but the two I have are two of the best shooting factory rifles I've ever shot. Now, be prepared to have it rock your world a little bit, because I'm sure at just over six pounds, it's gonna let you know you've shot it. They do have a lot of plastic but they are solid rifles where it counts, and they do shoot.

Understand, when I'm shooting the Tikka's, it's with loads I have well massaged for them. I don't shoot factory ammo so I can't honestly say how they shoot with factory loads.

One other thing, that black thing on the butt of the stock may look like a recoil pad, but it's not, it's hard, so you might want to consider the price of a LimbSaver pad in your pricing one out. That Winchester Feather weight I shot also had a solid butt plate.

Last edited by BKeith; Yesterday at 02:09 PM. Yesterday, 07:32 PM Well, I finally get it thanks to each of you, Fred, Mike, and BK. Being new to hunting rifles is more difficult than shooting skeet with my 12 gauge IMO.....

I can ask one of my friends if I can shoot his 270Win T3 at the range, so I get to experience the recoil. Maybe I can get to fire a Model 70 as well for comparison, if not, at least I have at least one data point with the T3 experience.

Also, another friend said he paid $250 to have his 300WMG T3 ported which supposedly reduced apparent recoil by 15 percent. He also replaced the stock recoil pad that came with the gun. Do you guys see porting as really an advantage to get off the second shot, if necessary, it it only yields a 15% reduction in recoil?

Again, I greatly appreciate each of you explaining what I need to know.

Yesterday, 11:31 PM If he is only getting a 15% reduction then there must not be very many ports or what is there is very small. Usually it's more in the 35%-50% reduction with a properly done port. There's one thing you can do which will save you money and reduce recoil for when you are at the range, there is a clamp on muzzlebrake and they are in the $80-$125 range.

Some of the clamp on's will give you 50%-60% reduction in recoil. Tikka actually makes one for the T3 Lite that will reduce the felt recoil by at least 35% and up. They are more expensive in the $175 range. There's a couple of negatives to using one of these and that is the muzzle blast will be outrageous and the people sitting any where near you at the range will not be happy. You can never go to the range and practice without ear protection or you will regret it.

It will help you stay on target better for a faster follow up shot if needed by reducing the muzzle flip. If you shoot it during the twilight period it will be brighter than normal and could blind you temporarily from the flash. I would use it at the range and sit to one end alone if possible and for me personally I would take it off for hunting situations.

Here's a few that make them, Tikka T3 HSS Clamp on Brake, Grizzly Gunworks, Coretac Solutions, Badger Ordinance, and Kahntrol.

Here's one more thing where recoil with the 12ga is concerned, it's actually much more than a 270 Win overall and in some cases much, much more. The numbers in parentheses are the weight of load in ounces and the muzzle velocity, then the numbers to the far right are the recoil in ft lb numbers. You can see that the 3 inch shells are about 2 1/2 times what a 270 Win would be with a 130gr or 140gr bullet.

12 gauge, 2.75" (1 1/8 at 1200) 7.5 23.0
12 gauge, 2.75" (1 1/4 at 1330) 7.5 32.0
12 gauge, 2.75" (1 1/2 at 1260) 7.5 45.0
12 gauge, 3" (1 5/8 at 1280) 7.5 52.0
12 gauge, 3" (1 7/8 at 1210) 8.75 54.0

Last edited by fred243; Yesterday at 11:47 PM. Today, 12:43 AM Location: Springfield, South CarolinaI have a good friend who is a gunsmith and I noticed he had put a Smith Enterprises muzzle brake on his rifle and he said recoil is severely reduced with it. Might be something to consider.

Then again you could add weight to a Tikka.

__________________
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Brownells DUT Advertised $5 shipping

I went to Brownells to order some stuff and put in the DUT code put up here for $5 shipping and it says that it is invalid? What gives on this

"Ever since I arrived to a state of manhood, I have felt a sincere passion for liberty" Ethan Allen

I had that happen on an order. Shipping was $6 USPS so I placed the order anyway. I emailed them but got No response. Next order where the shipping was $20 UPS, the DUT code made it $5. The lack of response to the email bothers me more than the $1. I liked the Customer Service they used to have.

Last edited by Mal Paso; Yesterday at 05:16 PM.

I had the same thing happen friday, it wouldn't accept the DUT code. I called them to check why and they said the prder has to be a minimum of $125 inorder for the DUT code to work.

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Chest rig for Redhawk 7.5 44 magnum

Hello all I am wanting to see if anyone knows where I can find a left handed chest rig for a ruger redhawk 44 mag with 7.5 inch barrel. Everywhere i look its right handed only.

Any starting places to look?

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husband falls asleep in church

Yesterday, 09:02 AM Location: Western South Dakotahusband falls asleep in church A woman who is constantly embarrassed by her husband falling asleep in church goes to the priest to ask for help. The priest says, "Look love, if he falls asleep again, poke him with this hat pin. I'll nod to you as a signal to poke him.". The woman agrees to the plan.
So Sunday rolls around and sure enough, good old Mr Jones nods off again. The priest notices and asks, "Who is our saviour?" then nods to Mrs Jones. She pokes her husband, and he wakes up and shouts, "Jesus Christ!".
The priest, pretending to be impressed, says, "Very good!".
A full three minutes later, Mr Jones is asleep again. The priest again notices, and asks, "What is the name of Jesus' father?" before nodding at Mrs Jones again.
She pokes her husband, who screams, "GOD!" at the top of his lungs.
The priest again congratulates Mr Jones on his alertness and continues with the sermon.
However, during the sermon, he begins nodding enthusiastically, which Mrs Jones mistakes for a poking signal.
The priest then says, "And what did Eve say to Adam after she gave him his 99th child?" the priest nods.
The mistaken Mrs Jones pokes her husband, and he shouts, "If you poke that ****ing thing into me one more time, I'll snap it in half and shove it up your arse!". __________________
The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those
who are willing to work and give to those who would not.
Thomas Jefferson

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USMC Veteran 69-72

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Optimum pocket pistol caliber: 380? 9mm? 357 Sig? 40? 45?

I get the feeling the OP is referring to a hypothetical balance between stopping power and capacity. Is 5 .45s "more" than 7 9mms, or the opposite, etc.

There are many metrics you could use to do this, total bullet weight in the gun, total kinetic energy of all the rounds combined, total mass*velocity*numberRounds, etc etc. All of them would lead to different, and probably useless, conclusions.

Ultimately this is a caliber question, and they all stop the same above .380. So the answer is 9mm.

If you bring concealment into it, then it becomes a personal question. If you can conceal a CM9, 9mm. If you can't, .380.

__________________
1. Mindset
2. Tactics
3. Skill
4. Equipment

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Hilary and the fortune teller

Hillary And The Fortune Teller

During a recent public outing, Hillary slipped off to visit a fortune teller of some local repute. In a dark and hazy room, peering into a crystal ball, the mystic delivered grave news.

"There's no easy way to say this, so I'll just be blunt: Prepare yourself to be a widow. Your husband will die a violent and horrible death this year."

Visibly shaken, Hillary stared at the woman's lined face, then at the single flickering candle, then down at her hands. She took a few deep breaths to compose herself. She simply had to know. She met the fortune teller's gaze, steadied her voice, and asked her question.

"Will I be acquitted?"

__________________
The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those
who are willing to work and give to those who would not.
Thomas Jefferson

Life Member NRA
USMC Veteran 69-72

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Casting WW .452 sizing

Boolit Mold Join DateJun 2013LocationNorth CarolinaPosts11

I have about 200lbs of WW ingot, and a lee 452-200RF mold. I plan on shooting these out ofa 1911, do I need to lead the barrell and check throat size etc before I load them, or just cast them, lube them, load them and have a great day at the range?

Gosh Drew I got away with doing stuff like that for years, decades actually. Even though I "know better" today I still sometimes just cast, size to a standard size, and load and shoot. Most of the time it works pretty well. Maybe not "match grade" but usually without leading and with reasonable accuracy. I say go for it and see what happens. Just make sure you make a dummy round to see if it drops into your 1911 barrel so you don't end up with a bunch of ammo you cannot use.

Duke

Unless it's some odd ball sized barrel (bore n groove) you should be good to go.

Don't try to solve a problem before it occurs.

I have been loading 1911 .45 ACP since around 1970.

I have never seen one that would not work beautifully with .452 bullets.

.

First reload: .22 Hornet. 1956.

Where is John Galt?

(If you don't know, you owe it to yourself to find out. )
.

Boolit Mold Join DateJun 2013LocationNorth CarolinaPosts11

That's what I was hoping for, I've got plent of 45 cases, can make 7 dummies and make sure they cycle, check the barrell after 50 rounds for leading, I plan on buying a boolit sizer for my 308 but will work on hanguns first. Have not studied enough on gas check or paper to load over 2k fps...

You need to walk before you try to run.

You should not try to jump into 2000+ rifle loads on your first attempt.

First reload: .22 Hornet. 1956.

Where is John Galt?

(If you don't know, you owe it to yourself to find out. )
.

Boolit Mold Join DateJun 2013LocationNorth CarolinaPosts11

William, I agree, after a few thousand successes inhandguns ill move up to highspeed rifles.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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boolit shape??

I've been trying to learn more here, but, I don't understand the why's and wherefores of boolit shapes.

A jacketed bullet can have a long, slender shape with minimal bearing surface, and it seems to fly straight. But from what I've been reading, cast boolits seem to need a long tubular shape to fly straight. How come? I've read that they can enter the rifling crooked, and that detracts from their accuracy. Doesn't the same apply to the J-words? Can anyone help me understand this better? Thanks.

Main reason jacketed can successfully use a slender nose is due to the jacket preventing nose slump caused by initial accelleration forces which deforms a cast boolit causing very erratic flight and extreme accuracy loss. There's a lot of other factors as well, but this is a major player in shape design choices.

An old Cherokee was teaching his grandson about life. "Inside me two wolves fight," he told the boy.
"One is evil - he is anger, envy, greed, arrogance, self-pity, resentment, lies, false pride, and ego. The other is good - he is joy, love, hope, serenity, humility, kindness, generosity, truth and faith. The same fight is inside you - and every other person, too."
The grandson thought for a minute and asked,"Which wolf will win?"
The old Cherokee replied, "The one you feed."

Boolit Mold Join DateJul 2012Posts15

Because lead is much softer than copper, when it enters the barrel at an angle it deforms and becomes canted relative to the barrel. When this happen with a copper jacketed bullet the harder copper causes the bullet to "self correct" lessening the effect of the cant. Lead also "self corrects", but only a very small amount. The harder the alloy the better the "self correcting" ability.

The BHS of copper jackets(it is not pure copper; it's called Gilding Metal) is 114, give or take. The hardest you can get a lead bullet, as you probably know, is about 30. And then there are steel jacketed bullets...

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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