Plans:
Rainier Arms BCG - Phosphate
Daniel Defense Mid-Length CHF Barrel
Geissle 2 Stage Trigger
Armalite Lower Parts Kit
Magpul MIAD
Haven't Decided On:
Stock
Sights
Charging Handle
Any suggestions or opinions are always valued.
some people are armslist have them but are wanting $300 for them, JG was selling them for $120 up to a month ago, what the heck happened?
__________________\ABS\Auto Blog Samurai\data\Casting Boolits\thefiringline\smile.gif "Smilie")
. I only recently have started shooting jacketed again, and bought bullets at a LGS, and it was expensive - like around 30 cents per bullet! What would be a ball park cost for the bullets you mention? Can you reveal the source to me? More than any other component, I am finding powder the hardest thing to find. I am in the process of joining a club, and sometimes they can get larger orders of powder. But the large powder orders are usually for shotgun rounds.
Lou
The biggest hurdle will be getting any of it to fill out properly. Then not to mention what it might do to a nice mold.
For a better answer you might look over on Castboolits.com. I know there was one or two fellas pouring it up somehow.
[link removed]
Sorry, I could not read the content fromt this page.Jim
Sorry, I could not read the content fromt this page.thanks
Sorry, I could not read the content fromt this page.I couldn't get the powder to flow through the funnel without a lot of coaxing and patience. Today I looked closer at the funnel and found I could very easily open up the throat, given a shop full of tools, in particular a good sized round file with a tapered end. I finished with a cone-shaped grinding stone. The powder goes right through now. All I was trying to do is make the mouth of the container wider, hopefully with something lying around and not good for much else.
The funnel is only a couple bucks from any Lee dealer. I did some searching on funnels, and it would take almost twenty bucks for a large caliber model to equal what this modified cheap red funnel can do. Check it out.
I've been happy with their work, and they haven't charged me for any updating of the trust I have done. Would highly recommend them.
Edit to add- they've done NFA trusts for a handful of my friends too, who have also been totally satisfied.
"He had delusions of adequacy." - Walter Kerr
"He has all the virtues I dislike and none of the vices I admire."-
Winston Churchill
"A modest little person, with much to be modest about." - Winston
Churchill
"I have never killed a man, but I have read many obituaries with
great pleasure." - Clarence Darrow
"He has never been known to use a word that might send a reader to
the dictionary." - William Faulkner (about Ernest Hemingway)
"Poor Faulkner. Does he really think big emotions come from big
words?" - Ernest Hemingway (about William Faulkner)
"He has never written a phrase that did NOT send a reader to the
dictionary". - (Unknown about Conrad Black).
"He can compress the most words into the smallest idea of any man I
know." - Abraham Lincoln
"I didn't attend the funeral, but I sent a nice letter saying I
approved of It." - Mark Twain
"He has no enemies, but is intensely disliked by his friends." - Oscar
Wilde
"I am enclosing two tickets to the first nigh to my new play; bring a
friend...if you have one." -George Bernard Shaw to Winston Churchill
"Cannot possibly attend first night, will attend second ... if there
is one." - Winston Churchill, in response.
"I feel so miserable without you; it's almost like having you here."
- Stephen Bishop
"He is a self-made man and worships his creator." - John Bright
"I've just learned about his illness. Let's hope it's nothing
trivial." - Irvin S. Cobb"
He is not only dull himself, he is the cause of dullness in others."
- Samuel Johnson
"He is simply a shiver looking for a spine to run up." - Paul Keatin
"There's nothing wrong with you that reincarnation won't cure." -
Jack E Leonard
"He has the attention span of a lightning bolt." - Robert Redford
"They never open their mouths without subtracting from the sum of
human knowledge." - Thomas Brackett Reed
"In order to avoid being called a flirt, she always yielded easily."
- Charles, Count Talleyrand
"He loves nature in spite of what it did to him." - Forrest Tucker
"Why do you sit there looking like an envelope without any address on
it?" - Mark Twain
"His mother should have thrown him away and kept the stork." - Mae West
"Some cause happiness wherever they go; others whenever they go." -
Oscar Wilde
"He uses statistics as a drunken man uses lamp- posts ... for support
rather than illumination."- Andrew Lang (1844-1912)
"He has Van Gogh's ear for music." - Billy Wilder
"I've had a perfectly wonderful evening. But this wasn't it." - Groucho
Marx
Life Member NRA
USMC Veteran 69-72
Tired of the e-mails too, I've "unsubscribed" once already.
Michele
Now today, I was wondering, why hasn't anyone tried to do something that the M6 scout did? I'm going to take a wild guess and say Springfield Armory owns the rights to the M6, but why has no one tried to do something like this, either by aquiring rights, or simply building their own design?
Now why would they do this? Because the need (mostly WANT) exists for such things. Because really, who the hell would buy the Savage Model 42? I mean, what's special about it? The only thing worth noting is the fact that it's a COMBINATION GUN. And there really is a market for these things. The M6 scout on gunbroker? Normally reach 1000 dollars, and you know what? People are buying them, even for that kind of money!
People want things like the M6 scout. They were a ruggedly designed survival combination gun, that looked awkward and had a strange trigger, but offered great features like ammo storage in the stock and was able to be broken down for easy storage, or whatever one would need the feature for.
Has any company even tried to do something like this again?
I mean, am I the only one who thinks the M6 Scout was this "great" thing? I mean, surely someone has to agree that they were awesome, right? 'Cause the people buying them for $1000 a pop sure do. \ABS\Auto Blog Samurai\data\Casting Boolits\thefiringline\confused.gif "Confused")
Headstamp reads as follows, "IVI" on the top "9mm" on the lower left and "08" on the lower right.The photo is of a plain 9mm 9x19 case, with this case compressed and extended next to it?
Any ideas as to what it is?
I will fear no evil, for thou art with me.
This should help:IVI = Industries Valcartier Inc. (Presently SNC Technologies Inc.) ...it's Canadian, Vancouver
.
Last edited by Dryball; Today at 12:06 AM.
They look like Simunitions ammo. It's a training round...the capsules should be filled with "paint"...used by military and L.E.
Alrighty, we were debating it being a wax projectile or some type of pepper ball setup.We found 10 at the range, trying to think of something constructive/destructive to do with them.
I will fear no evil, for thou art with me.
Training ammo commonly used indoors and also as non-lethal crowd control
"Ever since I arrived to a state of manhood, I have felt a sincere passion for liberty" Ethan Allen
Boolit Mold Join DateDec 2012LocationArkansasPosts1They look like Simunitions ammo. It's a training round...the capsules should be filled with "paint"...used by military and L.E.What he said...
Your weapon has to be converted (with a kit) to fire them. They are better than paintball guns but fairly expensive. We have the kits for our M4's and M9's but cannot get any more rounds due to cost.
Boolit Buddy Join DateAug 2009Posts72Maybe the casing can be used for a leight weight .40 bullet in the 140-150 grain range
I loaded a few this morning with a small rifle primer and a wax bullet.They chambered and fired in our 9mm largo 'test' gun(bad barrel)
Not really good for anything, but fun to play with, now they'll go in the box of junk for a later date.
I will fear no evil, for thou art with me.
dryball has it right , there's a lil plastic domed capsule filled with paint , they have six slits and when they impact a flat hard surface they leave a cool lil paint star splatter ( that looks like those six slits enlarged into a starburst ) they come in several calibers and i think i like the 38 special ones best lolz
" To sit in judgment of those things which you perceive to be wrong or imperfect is to be one more person who is part of judgment, evil or imperfection."
Wayne Dyer if it was easy would it be as worthy ? or as long of lasting impression ? the hardest of lessons are the best of teachers [shrugz]
Simunitions ammunition. Has a little plastic bullet filled with dye (blue and red). Used in special weapons so they would function the action. Used a lot in MOUT training.You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum RulesLarry Gibson
Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"
The price gets lower as you buy more. Only $3 shipping.
Marc
Last edited by recoil junky; Yesterday at 01:28 PM.My good friend recently inherited his late-father-in-law's M1 Carbine. The rifle is in mint condition--the bluing is nigh-perfect and the wood stock has nary a ding or dent in it. It looks, for all intents and purposes, brand new and unfired.
Now the problem:
The rifle is extremely accurate. At 50 yards, properly benched, it will hold sub-3" groups using either his handloads or 110 gr. S&B ammo. However, the groups are a full 24" above the point of aim, despite the the rear sight being adjusted to its lowest position:
The front sight post is apparently not adjustable for elevation:
Any suggestions as to what might be going on, and how we can fix the problem?
Thanks!
(BTW, the red dust is just lint from the gun sock.)
Springfield frequently has designs/dimensions that seem to be different from everybody else, but I think the hammers will interchange.
Changing from spur type hammer to a Commander style, or rounded hammer, may require changing the grip safety to a different design.
I am the proud owner of a new Ruger GP-100, 6 inch stainless. Practically still warm from the factory. I like it exceptionally well. It is very tight and seems to be quite accurate. Haven't had a chance to get it sighted in yet however, if it even needs it. Hits dead on at 30 yards regardless.
I bought this handgun mainly for range use and target shooting. However, I also am planning on using it as a home defense gun in the near future when I move. Would you consider the 6" barrel a pro or a con for a home defense revolver?
I sort of consider it a plus in some regards. Muzzle blast would be reduced especially with magnum loads (I plan on running .38 spl +Ps btw), and the muzzle heavy weight at least for me seems to keep muzzle jump down even with hot loads. I can very quickly and accurately empty the cylinder firing 158 grain .38 specials and even Federal 125 grain SJHP .357 magnums aren't much more difficult to control.
Often I hear people say a shorter handgun may be a better idea. I also VERY often hear of folks recommending 18.5-20" barrel pump shotguns for home defense duty as well. Mas Ayoob is a proponent of using handguns for home defense on the ground that they are far handier and more maneuverable than a shotgun. He advocates using a long gun only in planned areas where you can hunker down more or less, and not moving through the house with such a large weapon. I tend to agree.
So what are your thought on a 6" barreled home defense revolver? Would I have been better off to go with a shorter barrel or will the 6" tube be just fine or even advantageous?
7.62x39mm, adjustable sights, occasionally does OK at 100 yards. \ABS\Auto Blog Samurai\data\Casting Boolits\thefiringline\wink.gif "Wink")
Actually, any decent iron sighted OR red dot equipped rifle would work well - check to see if electronic sights are illegal to use in your area while hunting/controlling varmints. An SKS would probably be about perfect - you said you couldn't take the shot, is the backstop not safe? In that case perhaps a cross bow?
As far as the guns you mentioned, it depends on what you already have, what you want the gun for, and other subjective factors.
Objectively, if you want a rifle, a CMP Garand is generally a good bet.
But if you want a self defense handgun, both the Mak and the PPS are good guns. Not sure how expensive or available 9x18 is in your area compared to 9x19, now or in better times, but that would be a determining factor for me in your position.
Came into a good deal on a used Taurus RB in 454 Casull. I have a few 45LC in Ruger and Marlin variety.I'm looking for a mould that will allow me to use a CB with GC in all three. Any suggestions? I've been eyeing Lyman, NOE, RCBS and SAECO varieties. Looking to be in the 250-260gr neighborhood. Purpose will range from plinking with trail boss to all out hunting loads for pig and deer. Any suggestions?
Reports I have read say it is a pretty good shooter.
I have a Model 527 in .223 and it is a tack driver.
Yesterday, 07:46 AM Yes, the Glock is an ugly hunk of plastic and metal. Yes, it is ridiculed by some as the "tupperware" pistol. Yes, some people turn their noses down at the thought of a Glock. It's kind of "cool" to be anti-Glock, particularly on gun forums where some regard it as a mark of their knowledge of firearms to "hate the plastic pistol" etc. Others just don't like it because they think it is has, well, a face only a mother would love. There's nothing stylish about a Glock. On the other hand: they do what they are made to do, reliably. They are very easy to maintain. They require little by way of training to learn how to get it to go bang. Some hate that they have no external safety. With a round in the chamber, all you do is pull the trigger and it goes bang and you keep pulling the trigger until the magazine runs out of ammo. That's good, for some, bad for others. But, frankly, I like Glocks because they have a proven track record of simply working. They just work.
So, without further ado: here is my "Why I Like Glock" video, and, as always, offered respectfully, FWIW, mindful that YMMV.
WHY I LIKE GLOCKS
__________________ Yesterday, 02:32 PM 
Fairly good video. I said in another thread, they're good pistols. But in the early 90's I had to pump, literally, thousands of rounds through each of several firearms, and that included the Glock. To the point of complete exhaustion and muscle fatigue by midday, each day. It does what it's supposed to do, but all guns do that. Not bad, but I don;t own one. One thing though, they are nearly half the cost of a SIG, so that's a plus.
__________________"If you are a reloader and you don't know Lee, you don't know Jack" - Floydster
DON'T BE SCARED?
Yesterday, 09:58 PM I was among the "don't care for them at all" crowd. There was no reason to own one because to me, they didn't do anything that any number of other, better looking, better feeling guns did just as well. But, one day I wanted a small 10mm and the Glock 29 was the apparent answer. After mine arrived and I started shooting it and inspecting it, that's when I began to appreciate it. Not because it 'just worked', but because 1) it's built like a tank in terms of material thickness in the slide and particularly around the chamber area--far heavier than many other guns I'm familiar with, 2) it showed no signs of wear due to cycling (slide, rails). unlike my M&Ps which show significant insert wear after just a few thousand rounds, and 3) take down, even on my Gen 3, is something of a miracle of simplicity compared to any other gun I've owned.
So, I don't think they are necessarily any more reliable than any other gun I've fired, but they appear to me to share some design features that really matter and that really do make them exceptional. If you simply don't like polymer pistols, simply don't like striker-fired weapons, or simply don't care to own a butt-ugly handgun, then I imagine you don't care to own a Glock. I certainly understand all of that.
__________________ Read the full article here...
I was wondering if making an impact slug of a rifles throat is a better/worse method of measuring throat diameter etc., as opposed to just making a Cerrosafe chamber casting? I know that I have to wait 1 hour before measuring the casting and that after 1 month it expands quite a bit..any opinions as to which method is best?
If you are going to send the upset slug to the mold maker to ensure proper fit, LBT and others seem to prefer the upset pure lead slug, because "what you see is what you get" and it is constant.
pound slug.
make a couple of them you'll know which one to use.
and don't forget some type of lube I like lanolin.
it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.
If you know how to use it the Cerrosafe will work fine. I use it all the time. I also have ponded slugs in and they work ok too. Have tried both with the same chamber and got the same results with Cerrosafe a whole lot easier.Larry Gibson
If you know how to use it the Cerrosafe will work fine. I use it all the time. I also have ponded slugs in and they work ok too. Have tried both with the same chamber and got the same results with Cerrosafe a whole lot easier.Larry Gibson
I agree.
NRA Endowment member, TSRA Life member, Distinguished Rifleman, Viet Nam VetYou may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules
Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"
Is any one else having problems with the front sight drifting while shooting ?
Thanks
Boolit Mold Join DateAug 2011Posts2
Hi folks-I'm a newbie to boolit casting, but I am sliding farther and farther down that slippery slope.
I just purchased a Trapdoor Springfield and am casting some 405 grain boolits using the Lee hollow base single cavity die (Lee Item #90268). No problems casting the boolits, (well, nothing that a 30 lb fire extinguisher couldn't fix) but I have a question about seating them.
The boolit has 3 grease grooves, and above the last grease groove their is a small ring, not a flat or a crimping groove or cannelure.
Should I crimp this above the ring, or below it in the third grease groove? I tried crimping above the ring, but did not get much of a crimp.
I have attempted to attach a picture.
Any help would be much appreciated. I hope to shoot the old girl on the 4th of July.
That bullet does not have a crimp groove, I'd crimp it in the top grease groove if that length will chamber.
No need to crimp in a single shot.
Forget about it.That is THE boolit for the Trapdoor, I had great results over 10-14 gr of Unique.
Bill
If it was easy, anybody could do it.
MG,I use that bullet in several Trapdoor rifles.
As mentioned above by Mtgun44; no need to crimp with smokeless, but it's a different game with black powder. Do you plan to use smokeless or black powder?
Those big lube grooves carry a lot of lubricant and with an SPG lube (or facimilee) you probably don't need to lube the top lube groove when using smokeless. With BP, you'll probably want to fill all the lube grooves and crimp over the top rim. With smokeless powder, I've had good luck using an NRA 50/50 lube with the bullet cast pretty soft.
Last edited by Scharfschuetzer; Yesterday at 10:27 PM.
Keep your powder dry,Scharf
No need to crimp in a single shot.
Forget about it.That is THE boolit for the Trapdoor, I had great results over 10-14 gr of Unique.
Bill
Concur.Why do you think that you need to crimp the boolit?
What are you trying to achieve by doing so?
BTW, welcome to Cast Boolits mgillespie!
Boolit Mold Join DateAug 2011Posts2Thanks for the help guys.I thought the 45-70 needed to be crimped. The only experience I have with it is some of the Hornady lever revolution factory ammo, and it has a roll crimp. Of course, that is designed for a lever action. I didn't know a crimp would not be needed for the single shot.
I'm going to load with smokeless for now. I'm planning on my first loads being 26 grains of IMR 4198. I have that powder and I have read several recommendations for it.
Off to the loading press tonight.
Thanks again to all for the help.
No need for crimp at all. Bill told you right.
As mentioned, no need to crimp with that load.Larry Gibson
MtGun44,You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum RulesDo you use any filler over your charge of Unique, if so what do you use?
Thanks
Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"
I have come to the conclusion that for me at least the practical max range (for practice) for me is about 10yds. With my little Ruger LCP, and cast, I can keep all shots on paper, and the majority in the black. For me, that is satisfactory. I am wondering if others shooting the little 9 could advise me if they are shooting at distances further than I have established for myself?
1Shirt!
"Common Sense Is An Uncommon Virtue" Ben Franklin"Ve got too soon old and too late smart" Pa.Dutch Saying
I shoot a Walther PPK/S, and usually shoot 7 yards and occasionally at 10. I don't think many were designed for shooting much past that.
7 to 15 yards with my Kel-tec P32. That PPK should be better than that since it has a real trigger.
Short sight radius, small sights, small grips, mediocre to worse triggers on most
don't lend to target shooting.OTOH, my wife has a Sig P238 which has a good trigger, good sights so it does
better than average. Much of the reason she has that one is that she said
that the Keltec P3AT sights and trigger were unacceptable.Bill
If it was easy, anybody could do it.
I was taught by a WW2 OSS vet, who was an instructor at "the farm" in basic tradecraft for intelligence officers and clandestine operators, that the purpose of a pocket pistol is to neutralize immediate threats to life or to avoid capture, to "shoot and scoot" to create a window for escape.The admonishment was, "if you stand and fight, you'll never live to shoot'em all!"
If your job is not "combat" but you have a dangerous job to do in a denied area where hostiles are actively looking for you, with the intent that you be captured, drugged, tortured and imprisoned for years until you can be exchanged for an asset allied forces are holding, the rule is that "he who shoots and runs away may live to spy another day...."
We were taught that engagement range was from contact to 10 meters, putting "burst on target", firing instinstinctive point, convulsive grip, double- or triple taps in 1-2 seconds, then breaking off contact to disappear....
A good reference is "Shooting to Live" by Fairbairn, and Bullseyes Don't Shoot Back" by Col. Rex Applegate.
Last edited by Outpost75; Today at 06:30 PM.
The little pocket 380's are certianly not range guns, especially with factory ammo. They can be punishing, and not easy to be accurate with. I practice at about 10 yards. Trying to hit something further out can be dissapointing.You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules
Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"
My C and R collection consists of:
1943 M1 Garand
1943 Smith Corona M1903A3
1942 M91/30 Mosin Nagant
1944 M44 Mosin Nagant
19.. M38 Mosin Nagant
1936 K98 Mauser S/42G code
19?4 (it only has a 4 on the receiver, guessing 1944) K98 Mauser BNZ code, particularly awesome because it has a pieces of shrapnel still in the stock!
Type 38 Arisaka
1943 No4 Mk1 Enfield
1914 P08 Luger DWM
Reproductions:
Chinese copy of a Winchester 1897 Trench Gun
Auto Ordnance GI 1911
still on my list: Italian Carcano, French MAS, Nambu, 1911 circa WWII,
Type 99 Arisaka, TT33 Tokarov. 1895 Nagant revolver, and a Styer M95.
As you can tell my "theme" im going for is WWII era weapons. Ive always had an interest in WWII. Anything about it, be it aircraft, weapons, warships
military tactics, history in general.
As I lay in my hotel room in Port au Prince watching Band of Brothers and The Pacific, my mind wonders off to my rifles. Wondering if one of my rifles could have been in one of those historic battles. Every time I pull the trigger on one of my war relics it gives me great pleasure to know that the piece of wood and steel in my hands may have once protected a human life(Axis or Ally),that hopefully made it back to their loved ones. Owning a piece from one of the most important times in human history is why I like C and R. It makes the past truly come alive right in front of me! If only my rifles could talk...
Last edited by Mausermolt; Yesterday at 10:53 PM. Reason: added the repro'sI think I've made a selection on product: The Fox labs 2 oz (limited by Florida law) flip top cone spray. I'll also buy some training inserts.
I'm a little concerned that this stuff is very hot. I want it to be effective but also concerned about blowback. I wear glasses so I would probably not be as effected by a full frontal blast but from everything I'm reading even the smallest bit is not a pleasant experience. I'm debating the merits of just having someone shoot me with it so I can learn how it feels \ABS\Auto Blog Samurai\data\Casting Boolits\thefiringline\biggrin.gif "Big Grin")
Obviously I'll buy some training inserts and we'll run through simple practices like keeping it concealed until you use it, half second bursts, spray and move, things like that.
Is there anything else I should know or look into as far as training?
when I upgraded, I kept the cheap, thin steel, keyed safe and put it in the bedroom.
when one of us is home, it is unlocked and there is are options available.
when the last one leaves, the door is locked and the key is in our pockets.
If kids were around, I would keep it locked and key in pocket.
If a good thief comes in, I might lose a few items but if I am gone, there won't be much there to take anyway.
Plinking, Target Practice
The Remington 44 Magnum is not often a round one thinks of when headed to the range for a fun day of plinking, most often than not most are thinking of the 22LR. My handloaded 44 Special +P 240gr jacket bullet loaded with 8.5 grains of Hodgdon Universal has become one of my most favorite rounds for plinking and poking holes in paper, I would even trust them to the self defense role against the 2 legged predator especially in the right handgun. During this test this round proved to be very consistent and accurate. It even proved to be soft recoiling in the S&W 629 Performance Center 7.5in barrel revolver, yet everyone else on the range knew I was firing off something with substantial power, but not causing pain to the palm of my hands. Of all the handguns which accompanied me on this trip the S&W 629 Light Magnum Hunter Performance Center revolver proved to be the most accurate and the one I would prefer for any range use, it managed a 1 1/4 inch group at 25 yards.
Make and Model
Barrel Length
Ammunition
Hi
Lo
Average
Extreme Spread
Barrel Cylinder Gap
S&W 629-4 Performance Center
7.5in Ported
Ultramax Match 240gr Semi Wad Cutter
1186
1170
1181
16
0.006
Reloads 8.5grains of Universal/Winchester LP Primer
1084
1031
1059
53
Reloads 18.5grains of 2400
1333
1321
1325
12
Join me over at Day At The Range | Always On Target for the rest of the review and how I put a number of 44 Magnum Revolvers to the test. Leave comments and let me know what your favorite caliber is or what you believe to be the most versatile and why. If nothing more this proved to be in the top 5 of experiences I have had on the range. Thank you Elmer Keith.
Check here:
http://www.gunbroker.com/Support/SupportFAQView.aspx?faqid=1155&nocount=1
Last edited by Dixie Gunsmithing; Today at 02:54 PM.
Today, 05:12 PM My 24", 1:9 twist has shot good, 53 - 60 grain with at least 1/2" groups @ 100 yards no matter what powder or charge you use. With some work, it shoots much smaller. With the right powder and load development, it shoots 2 - 3" groups @ 500 yards with 69 grain SMK's.
It also does very well with the round nose 70 grain hunting bullets @ 400 yards. I never plan to shoot those past 200 or so yards but our range doesn't have a 300 yard berm so I had to use 400
I've never tried anything heavier/longer so can't say for sure but usually those longer/heavier bullets require a little more that 1:9 twist.
As for damage to the rifle/barrel, that's not going to happen unless you get frustrated and wrap it around a tree.
One thing I have found out, don't waste your time, powder or primers on those cheap 62 grain FMJ Armscor's. I bought a couple K of those for my AR's and they are absolutely, 100% pure junk. They do just fine in an AR that is for nothing but home defense and would probably never be shot at anything smaller that an 18x35 target, at less than 100 yards, but don't expect to hit anything small. I use those to foul the barrel when I'm shooting for my smallest groups and in a rifle that shoots one hole groups with good loads won't shoot 1.5" groups with those things.
Today, 05:56 PM Originally Posted by TMan 
My 22" 1:9 barrel will keep 65gr bullets point on and stable as far as I can shoot on my range, 300yds. The 69gr MatchKings look the best as I hit the upper end of the velocity range, near 3000fps, but shoot poorly at 2700fps in starting loads. From my rifle, the 65's have been more accurate. I suspect it's telling the same story as MontyF has seen. But if you have a longer barrel, and can get more speed/spin, you might be OK.
No hazard to speak of, and they might shoot OK out to 100yds.
Thanks everyone, your information is priceless and greatly appreciated. Just want to triple check a charge I'm using:Shooting a "Turked" Gew 88 Commission rifle with
175 gr. cast round nose/gas checked over 18 grs. of Alliant 2400.
My Lyman cast bullet manual doesn't list 2400 but I checked in a bunch of places and it seems a safe load. I shot Remington 170 gr. commercial as well as a bunch of 175 cast over 16 gr. of 2400 I made; no problems. Thought I'd take it up a bit and see what the target looks like.
I'm still a bit of a novice at this, so I figured, "what could it hurt to triple check the load with the folks who know?"
thanks in advance.
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I've heard various reports of people using expanders that are anywhere from 0.001" to 0.007" under bullet diameter. Personally I've always preferred 0.001" because it minimizes runout and generally allows the bullet to seat straighter, without risk of deformation. Lately I've been very OCD about this, and made special expander plugs for all of the calibers I'm loading, with different sizes for cast boolits and jacketed bullets. For 357 SIG, I use 0.354" for jacketed bullets, and 0.356" for cast (I size my cast boolits 0.002" over bore, which is 0.357"). For 300 Blackout, I have a 0.307" plug for jacketed, and a 0.309" plug for cast (0.310" boolits).Some people claim that you'll get more neck tension by using a smaller expander, but from what I've seen, brass cases tend to only have around 0.001" of elastic deformation, which of course can vary a bit depending on the hardness of the brass. So if you size the case mouth/neck any smaller, it seems that you're basically just using the bullet as the expander, and not adding any additional neck tension. What do you guys think? I've yet to see any dislodged bullets by loading into brass sized 0.001" under bullet diameter, for both jacketed and cast bullets.
And of course there's also the issue of springback after the expander plugs are pulled out, meaning that the mouth/neck will probably end up 0.002" under bullet diameter anyways. Again, this varies based on brass hardness, but I'm not sure to what degree.
Is there any reason why I should expand less?
Are the rules different for cast boolits versus jacketed?
Last edited by Jumbopanda; Yesterday at 06:31 PM.
.003" under for most cast, .005" for bigger cals. that kick a lot.
I shoot for .004 under boolit dia. or .002 under groove for my finished expanders depending on the partiular arm and cartridge w/w/o paper patch etc. I sight the difference as I load for a rifle that is supposed to be 308/312 and is infact 305/316 w/a 320 throat my expander for that 1 is 316 that averages 315 id finished for the 320 lead and 317 PP'd . The brass for naked boolits finished is softer by lot . The brass for the PP is harder by lot .My 284 dia 7mmRWH has an expander that finishes at 282 for 286 boolits but should be tighter for naked boolits but is perfect w/PP.
I think neck length plays in to it also and is dependent on your neck sizing details. I load for 2 06's w/huge necks and nominal throats so I size only 3/4 of the neck so less tension than the 3rd that has to be full lengthed every time w/tight neck ,throat and bore. There's 1 more that gets just barely sized 1 time in 3 full house shots as that particular seating die just off the crimp sizes the neck perfectly during seating (fat neck and grooves).
The answer is going to be the .001-7 is a guide w/.004 being the average answer ,but its really what Mr Arms wants. Larger bores probably tend to need closer to .007 and smaller bores closer to .001 . Imagine trying to get a 225 boolit in a 218 hole while a 460 is a slip fit in 459.
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Some target shooters use a slip fit. You can actually insert and remove boolit by hand from case. They have a custom tighter chamber cut and turn the case necks to acomplish this slip fit (no resizing after firing). Boolit ogive also touches against rifling when chambered (less wobble during flight). You also want your boolits to be concentric.
Boolit Man Join DateJan 2013Posts134It also depends on case neck wall thickness and the state of work hardening or anneal.of the brass.With jacketed match bullets for benchrest shooting an arbor 0.001" less than bullet diameter is fairly standard. If soft cast bullets are used in unturned necks which have been work-hardened by firing and reloading several times, chamfering and only flaring the mouth to prevent shaving lead, the rest of the neck having been expanded with an arbor dimensioned for jacketed bullets, you will get deformation of bullets softer than about 12 BHN, which can be measured, if you assemble dummy rounds and pull them.
Where a heavier bullet pull is desired to improve ignition, a snug bullet fit is desired. In .30 cals. I like a stepped plug with .312" portion 1/8" long below a 15? flare, with a 3/8" long .306 cylinder with hemispherical end termination.
With harder alloys a stepped expander which permits hand starting the bullet, aligning it straight to the top of the GC or base band works well, seating the bullet into a tighter neck beneath the mouth expansion. The Lyman "M" die facilitates this. Or alternately the RCBS cast bullet neck expander, with plug of appropriate diameter. I use the. 308" plug with 30? flare for. 311" diameter cast bullets, with good results. In the 7.62x54R a .309 plug for. 312 bullets in my Finn M39s.
Last edited by Outpost75; Yesterday at 09:02 PM.
It also depends on case neck wall thickness and the state of work hardening or anneal.of the brass.With jacketed match bullets for benchrest shooting an arbor 0.001" less than bullet diameter is fairly standard. If soft cast bullets are used in unturned necks which have been work-hardened by firing and reloading several times, chamfering and only flaring the mouth to prevent shaving lead, the rest of the neck having been expanded with an arbor dimensioned for jacketed bullets, you will get deformation of bullets softer than about 12 BHN, which can be measured, if you assemble dummy rounds and pull them.
Where a heavier bullet pull is desired to improve ignition, a snug bullet fit is desired. With harder alloys a stepped expander which permits hand starting the bullet, aligning it straight to the top of the GC or base band works well, seating the bullet into a tighter neck beneath the mouth expansion. The Lyman "M" die favilitates this. Or alternately the RCBS cast bullet neck expander, with plus of appropriate diameter.
Good info. I have done some experimenting with loading dummy cartridges and pulling bullets. I've measured the size of both the bullets and the cases they were pulled from, and found that cases don't spring back more than 0.001", which is why I now expand necks that much under bullet diameter. And I can confirm what you said about deformation of soft bullets; my pulled cast bullets measure 1 thousandth smaller after pulling if I use an expander meant for jacketed bullets.In 357 SIG, I have gotten bullets seated terribly crooked if I don't use a 0.001" expander. I suspect that the short neck contributes to this problem.
I never anneal any of my brass, so I suspect a lot of it is pretty stiff at this point. I've been thinking about building an annealing machine...but I have too many other projects I want to do.
for my M1A I use a Redding S-bushing die with a .336 Ti-N bushing with the expander polished down to .306 gives me a nice clean .002 neck tension when using LC-07 brass.
There are too many variables to give a short answer that applies to all situations. Are we talking handgun or rifle, sixgun or pistol, hard, soft or medium alloy and what kind and burning rate of powder. These all make a difference in neck size/tension.
Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.
Boolit Man Join DateSep 2011LocationWellington, NVPosts79When I started to reload for 30:30, I had a standard RCBS 2 die set to load with. Not having the expander die body or plug that is included with the Cowboy set, I spent a little time on my lathe and just made my own. The expander plug I made for that die was @ .307, I size and cast @.309 for my old Winchester 94. .002 press fit seams to work out well so far. When reloading for my old Winchester 94 in 38-55 with the larger .380 bore, I do the same. Cast and size for that one @.381 and expand with a .379 expander plug, it to seams to work well. The largest stock expander plug for the 38-55 that RCBS has in stock is the .3775 they include with the Cowboy Die set, and that was to small for the older large bore 38-55's, so I made that plug to. So far .002 seams to work well for me, is it ideal ?? I sure don't know that answer.You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules
Chris
Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"
A couple of friends and I are looking to invest in a good chronograph with a printer or printer capability.We're looking for quality, and value. I'd like to stay in the $200 range, but if what we're looking for can't be had for $200, then we'll pony up more, but $200 sounds like a good starting number.
What would y'all recommend?
I will fear no evil, for thou art with me.You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules
Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"
